DESPITE the presence of international names such as agnes b. from France, Massimo Sforza from Italy and PPQ from Britain, the recent Shanghai Fashion Week was mostly about promoting China's most designing minds.

A group of independent local designers has staked a claim as shapers of the fashion trends people will be following in fall and winter. The colors, materials and cuts they choose and the way they pull their looks together dazzled the Shanghai audience and fashionistas.

Almost each collection was inspired by a vision of their ideal client and they proved that Chinese designers are gradually coming into their own and achieving international recognition with strong concepts and high-quality designs.

Between April 11 and 17, around 40 fashion shows for 43 labels were staged on runways in the Xintiandi shopping and entertainment hub and 800 Show on Changde Road. Inside Xintiandi Style, there was even a pop-up store showcasing Chinese designers.

PPQ

Design duo Amy Molyneux and Percy Parker are well known in their native Britain, where their clothes are worn by celebrities including British television presenter Alexa Chung and singer Lily Allen. They staged their first show in China at Shanghai Fashion Week and hope to begin selling in China within a year.

An edgy collection began with a lineup of monochrome hot pants before progressing to green flowing skirts and tight black off-the-shoulder dresses with starched black bonnets. An outfit of white leggings with green jacket had a Robin Hood feel, while a patent leather trench coat had a sexier edge.

Molyneux described the typical PPQ afficionado as "the kind of girl who has a tattoo under her ball gown and isn't afraid to show it off - like Angelina Jolie, for example."

Mauro Franchi

One of several Italian brands arriving in Xintiandi for a two-day Italian fashion week special was Mauro Franchi, a one-year-old label about to enter the Chinese market. The look was classically Italian but softened, with feminine pastels and slouchy layers in abundance. Designer Mauro Franchi cites his inspiration dragonfly wings, realised in three-dimensional organza and canvas. Models wore soft scarves and cutaway dresses over leggings and rope belts. Mauro Franchi was one of several brands brought to Shanghai by the Italian Fashion Way initiative - Made in Italy but aimed squarely at China.

La Vie by Ji Cheng

Well-established local designer Ji Cheng presented her debut runway show "Zen Awakening" at London Fashion Week in February, which was well received by the international fashion media and audience. At Shanghai Fashion Week, her 2012/13 spring/summer collection titled "Metamorphosis" demonstrated her fondness for Chinese art and culture.

Ji has attended the Shanghai Fashion Weeks for years. As always she combines elements of Chinese art and culture with modern Western techniques and tailoring. This time 16 Chinese models presented 30 looks of the new collection.

Given the theme "Metamorphosis," the collection is inspired by the idea of rebirth symbolized by a caterpillar breaking out of its cocoon and becoming a butterfly, symbol of transformation, immortality and love. Ji wants women who wear her clothes to feel transformed.

To enhance the metamorphosis idea in the runway show, butterfly shapes are projected in the background with lasers. Some of the clothes have something of a graceful butterfly outline and some bear butterfly symbols and patterns. She uses natural, blended colors and organic fabrics in comfortable cuts. Her designs accentuate women's curves. Some of the looks also feature smoothly draped overlapping layers.

Raffles

Thirteen graduates from Shanghai's Raffles Design Institute show flaunted the best of the city's contemporary young fashion talent in a slick, tightly run show. The students' wacky inspirations ranged from "Temples in the Forest" with models wearing monk-inspired sackcloth dresses, to "The Sensation of Sports Cars," a slinky collection of skintight, orange and cream jumpsuits made from the leather of racing car seats.

The winner was Roderic Wong, whose theme "Human Tissue" and innovative use of wool felting techniques impressed the judges, a panel of experts drawn from fashion brands including Max Mara, Stefanel and Helen Lee. His prize is a scholarship to study for a master's degree in design in Australia or Singapore.

Also on show were five graduates from RafflesPrivato, a commercial label begun by graduates of the design institute, with a boutique opened in Xintiandi last year. "Twist," a series of soft dresses in grays and purples designed by Indonesian student Natalia Kiantoro won her the top prize.

Helen Lee

Following the success of her spring/summer 2012 ready-to-wear collection "Porcelain Butterfly" shown at Shanghai Fashion Week in October, Helen Lee again impressed with her fall/winter collection "Window."

While "Porcelain Butterfly'' looks were breezy, fresh, and feminine, the designer took a bold approach this time by integrating different materials and a strong, fun color palette with strategic color blocking to highlight a woman's curves.

Explaining her window inspiration, Lee said, "We look outside and dream and are washed in refracted light. Through the window we observe the world. In this way the window is functional, beautiful and romantic and I want my collection to reflect these values.''

The collection was comprised of dresses framed in oversized coats and knit wear finished with leather and satin. Bold lines frame the body while transparent fabrics reveal satin prints in patterns of stained glass and rain. With real quality in fabrics and interesting cuts, the looks were multi-layered, sexy, playful, funky but feminine.

As one of the earliest homegrown independent designers, Lee's ever-evolving styles and skills have moved up the quality ladder. This time she teamed up with Italian textile company Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, a producer of fine yarns. The company is famous for its quality and has supplied major fashion labels for years. Lee used the yarns to create exquisite hand-knit pieces.

Lee recently opened her latest and most upscale retail location at DBHK in Xintiandi Style. The shop features her latest runway collections and tailor-made pieces.

Zenobi

Along with Massimo Sforza, high-end brand Zenobi, most famous for its handmade leather shoes, was the luxury end of the Italian initiative. At Zenobi the look was casual and unisex, with men and women wearing frayed blue jeans and leather satchels with loosely slung scarves, although there were some smarter blazers on display. As always with the Italian brands there was also plenty of glamour - long fur coats with spiky heels, oversize fur collars and short fur jackets. Unlike some of the more ethereal designs on display this week, they all looked extremely wearable - if not always affordable.