Fashions playful in Paris
Print Edition
Menswear took a turn toward the whimsical at the fall and winter shows in Paris that ended last weekend with designers conjuring up Tim Burton-like forests, billowing cycling blousons and clown outfits.
Thom Browne
There have been lashings on fur in Paris this season. And even a gorilla coat. But some designers chose to deal with the latest menswear trend with a wink and a nudge.
Designer Thom Browne recreated a Tim Burton-like forest, with black deer and foxes frozen underneath nightmarish, sinewy trees.
Finely tailored gray suits with frayed edges were sported on models wearing wiry elephant masks, checked caps with antlers, and a hat with a rabbit’s ears, eyes and whiskers. Real fur was absent. The middle of the show took a turn for the surreal, featuring gargantuan black and white clown-like outfits that looked fit for the circus.
Carven
A BILLIARDS room, the place of the dapper yet playful gentleman, was the set for designer Guillaume Henry’s strong debut catwalk show for Carven.
Many of garments came in coal, slate gray, black and off-white. And above-the-ankle tapered pants, together with 1960s large check tweed and high-buttoned woolen jackets with narrow shoulders and excessive collars added to the vintage mood. But playfulness ended up dominating the show. Graffiti prints jazzed up button-up shirts.
John Galliano
John Galliano Homme is an aerodynamic man in a competitive world.
Galliano designer Bill Gaytten tackled the oversized torso-skinny legs silhouette trend inventively using biomorphic leggings, big puffas in burgundy and black and billowing cycling blousons. Oversized jerseys were aerodynamically curved in a circular shape.
But Gaytten didn’t forget artsy touches or the Crombie hat.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton’s fall-winter menswear 2014 show was all about the bag.
The world’s most famous check pattern, the Damier, was unveiled along with the Eiffel Tower for the Universal Exhibition of Paris in 1889. And some 125 years later, it’s been given a revamp: Being transformed from the famed brown into a vivid, modern cobalt.
The Damier Cobalt canvas was featured in a travel bag and clutch.
The bag’s blue tint seemed to infuse the clothes themselves in a sumptuous cobalt and turquoise alpaca coat, or a cobalt mohair and a silk striped pant.
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