Whether it's a makeover of the humble pullover, beautifully tailored jackets, Sicilian smart, fisherman chic and even floral house coats, there was something for all tastes at recent spring/summer 2013 menswear shows.

Bottega Veneta

The latest Bottega Veneta collection is inspired by the pullover - or as creative director Tomas Maier puts it - "a top that you pull over your head."

What Maier fails to add is that a Bottega Veneta pullover is not just any pullover. The designer puts into this seemingly simple attire the manufacturing expertise, fabric and attention to detail which make the difference.

Many of his summer pullovers are actually tunics. They come in light wool or cotton silk and casually caress the body, giving the impression of effortless elegance. Sometimes these tunics are worn with cropped trousers; at other times the hemline hangs from under the jacket of a cotton suit.

Many of this season's Bottega Veneta shirt/pullovers have a lace-up front, reminiscent of frontier buckskin garb - especially when they come in super-soft suede and are paired with fringed ankle boots. A V-neck cashmere pullover has side-seam zips for extra freedom.

The summer silhouette is sporty without losing its class. Jackets and trousers have a classic fit. Colors - unlike the garish shades seen on some current menswear runways - are calm brown and blue tones.

Maier also leaves loud prints to his colleagues, preferring a delicate floral print which fades into the fabric.

The renowned Bottega Veneta bags on this round are extra large and come in functional brown leather, with an elongated strap so that they can be worn across the body. It all looks so simple, and yet no other designer can carry off the intricate workmanship with such nonchalance.

Raf Simons

Raf Simons jolted spectators to focus on his men's designs, turning up the volume on disturbing syncopated music to open the show.

The unsettled feeling in the music lent itself immediately to the garb - an array of lean yet loose silhouettes.

Moody models with long asymmetrical fringes filed out in seven dark, lean, near-identical two-button suits - though with subtle variations.

As the collection progressed, Simons seemed to loosen up a little, allowing printed elongated T-shirts a dash of color, and on-trend white boxy shirts a floral collar flourish.

The color must have been infectious. The floral prints soon spread their way from collars to cover the entirety of several joyous day coats.

This strong collection thus came full circle on that happy note. The only drawback: the girly touches might not be a big hit with buyers.

Dior Homme

Dior Homme's Kris Van Assche marched a tailored naval troop down the runway in a play-it-safe spring/summer 2013 menswear show, which banished black and channeled Royal Navy blue.

Models in fitted blazers of lightweight wools and Prince of Wales check set the strict, conservative tone. Indeed, there was nothing revolutionary here, reworking many ideas from last season's much lauded show: marrying tailored military uniforms and sportswear. If Van Assche's aim was to create a salable, gentle evolution, he succeeded.

Differences were subtle. "It's my first show where there is no black, blue is the new way of doing black," said Van Assche.

The other new element was its assault of buttons: silver buttons, black buttons - all engraved with Christian Dior's coat of arms.

Dolce&Gabbana

A live band in traditional costume, complete with mandolins and tambourines, accompanied the 73 men and boys who walked down the runway of the Dolce&Gabbana venue in downtown Milan, wearing yesteryear combinations of black and white - a reference by the designing duo to their Sicilian roots.

Ranging from 12 to 43 years of age, all the models were non-professionals from Sicily, and looked at home in striped black-and-white T-shirts over slim black slacks or plain black shorts and Sicilian caps.

The finale of all 73 models looked like a simple parade of dark suits and white jackets. In reality, each outfit is unique, either in fabric or styling detail.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones presented a deft and confident catwalk homage to the active man. There was something for yachtsmen, athletes, fishermen - and even safari explorers - in an eminently wearable and wide-ranging collection of sporty elegance.

Might it be that Jones, who is in only his third outing as the house's menswear designer, is trying to impress Louis Vuitton CEO Yves Carcelle, a yachting fanatic?

"I guess so," Jones said backstage. Whatever the reason, it was a winning formula.

Yellow fisherman's macs twinned with relaxed navy pants and white leather deck shoes to give off one message: we're nautical but nice.

A laser cut blouson in gray was worn by a model sporting a cheeky anchor earring.

Another piece, one of the collection's best, would be sure to help any model stranded at sea: a padded leather life vest.

The show was also kitted out for a safari and then the racetrack. A series of khaki ensembles merged into skintight scuba tops that could have seen the model break out into a sprint.

Jones' aim was to pull off a "relaxed and soft" collection.

All too aware that too much exercise can be bad for health, he allowed his summer man some R&R in the Cote d'Azur in the form of a series of beautiful check silk suits.

The program notes cited the insouciance of southern France.

After this, it's Jones who might deserve some time off.

With a few strong collections under his belt, he can - until next season - afford to rest on his laurels.

Giorgio Armani

For next summer, Giorgio Armani is back to doing what he does best - tailoring gorgeous jackets.

Indeed, it all started with a jacket for the Milanese designer who turns 79 next month. The first was lining-less, but soon an Armani suit was a wardrobe must and an Armani tuxedo a red carpet favorite.

The Armani show last week was an ode to the jacket, from soft cardigan cuts to blazers and structured city jackets, all in super-refined lightweight fabrics.

The look was of a well put-together man whose cut of clothes is casual. A cardigan jacket could be worn with a pair of pleated trousers, while a navy suit had Bermuda shorts but also a shirt and tie.

Armani is not in the habit of following the pack. While most of Milan is screaming color, Armani stuck to his favorites: sandy beige, pebble gray, coffee brown and ink blue.

Hermes

Hermes' Veronique Nichanian knows how to dress men, and the house's spring-summer 2013 show was a devastatingly elegant affair.

Sexy fitted suits - single and double breasted - emphasized the shoulders but remained soft and non-angular, while high-waisted long-legged 1950s pants created a highly masculine silhouette.

There was an emphasis on pure luxury: be it soft suede, silk or tuxedos with peaked lapels in mohair. The elegance translated as a palette - terre vert, soft yellow, beige and soft russet - that was wide-ranging but remained tonal and non-garish.

In case there was any doubt as to the masculine credentials, sporty details like white sneakers, hoods, zippers and draw-strings brought home that this was soft, but highly virile.

Nichanian gives a simple explanation for her knack in dressing men. "I don't have any secrets. I just love men," she explained.