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Ladylike chic in Milan
By Daniela Petroff |
October 2, 2011, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
MUTED shades, light, airy fabrics and demure knee-length hemlines have emerged as trends for next spring and summer at Milan Fashion Week running from September 21-26.
Perhaps even fashion designers are feeling cowed by the constant grim economic forecasts, but according to the shows, next summer won't be loud and brash. On the contrary, there is something enduring about the collections being previewed in Milan: This is fashion that can transcend not only occasions but seasons, wearing well into the Indian-summer temperatures of fall.
There are few trousers in the collections, and when they show up they are slim and proper. Short shorts do have a prominent place on the runway, but after all it is summer.
Hemlines hover discreetly around the knee or are elegantly floor-length. Colors vary from black and white to beige, pastels and a few bold colors. The preferred footwear is the sandal.
Many shows hark back to the Roaring 1920's or the chic 1950's.
Low waists, crinoline hemlines and sequined embroidery are everywhere, but the defining style is pleats. Small, large, accordion - it makes no difference as long as the fabric folds.Bottega VenetaIn the preview collection presented on September 24 Tomas Maier mixes fabrics and colors to create a unique blending effect for next summer's styles.
A mix of leather and fabric and a contrast of black and brown make up the pleats of a skirt, while bands of different shades and materials are worked together to create a multi scarf effect for dresses.
Prints and embroidery, too, are a combination of shiny and opaque, color contrasts and mixing of fabrics. The overall feel is of something very special.
The silhouette is classic but sensual, a combination of a tailored cut and fluid lines. The latest Bottega Veneta bag comes in various sizes and is ultrasoft.Emporio ArmaniGiorgio Armani delivered one of the most ladylike collections seen thus far on the Milan preview runway for his second line Emporio label.
Taking a basic low-waisted silhouette, he gives the style a contemporary graphic look by defining the shape with contrasting black and white lines. The designer also gives a sculpted twist to yesteryear's crinoline skirt.
The Armani models looked like they just walked out of a tableau from a 1920s beach resort.
They wore chic Panama hats, black high-heeled sandals and carried a transparent beach bag. Think Deauville where Coco Chanel got her first fashion inspirations.D&GD&G attempted a response to a burning fashion question: how many ways can one wear the humble scarf?
Start with a tight minidress that appeared to be fashioned out of four distinct scarves tied on the side and overlapping - though they are expertly stitched together.
Then there was a loose blouse over a short skirt, a bandeau top paired with balloon shorts and short one-piece playsuits, and long skirts with handkerchief hemlines.
Colors were bold and clashing.
D&G even made platform shoes using scarves as straps.
The collection was pure summer and fun, and light enough to pack off for a trip to the beach or fancy port.
FerragamoFerragamo designer Massimiliano Giornetti was decidedly fantasy-driven in the collection previewed on September 25 during Milan Fashion Week - mostly leaving the workaday city behind.
For an exotic getaway, the Ferragamo woman wears chic dresses in chiffon and silk that drape the body elegantly. The dresses sometimes are halters, or knotted to create a sexy bandeau top that wraps sensually around the neck. Colors are bold reds and purples, prints straight out of the tropics.
Sticking to Ferragamo's classic roots, Giornetti sometimes topped the dresses with men's jackets.
For awards season, Ferragamo created gowns that would trigger flashbulbs on any red carpet.
Perhaps even fashion designers are feeling cowed by the constant grim economic forecasts, but according to the shows, next summer won't be loud and brash. On the contrary, there is something enduring about the collections being previewed in Milan: This is fashion that can transcend not only occasions but seasons, wearing well into the Indian-summer temperatures of fall.
There are few trousers in the collections, and when they show up they are slim and proper. Short shorts do have a prominent place on the runway, but after all it is summer.
Hemlines hover discreetly around the knee or are elegantly floor-length. Colors vary from black and white to beige, pastels and a few bold colors. The preferred footwear is the sandal.
Many shows hark back to the Roaring 1920's or the chic 1950's.
Low waists, crinoline hemlines and sequined embroidery are everywhere, but the defining style is pleats. Small, large, accordion - it makes no difference as long as the fabric folds.Bottega VenetaIn the preview collection presented on September 24 Tomas Maier mixes fabrics and colors to create a unique blending effect for next summer's styles.
A mix of leather and fabric and a contrast of black and brown make up the pleats of a skirt, while bands of different shades and materials are worked together to create a multi scarf effect for dresses.
Prints and embroidery, too, are a combination of shiny and opaque, color contrasts and mixing of fabrics. The overall feel is of something very special.
The silhouette is classic but sensual, a combination of a tailored cut and fluid lines. The latest Bottega Veneta bag comes in various sizes and is ultrasoft.Emporio ArmaniGiorgio Armani delivered one of the most ladylike collections seen thus far on the Milan preview runway for his second line Emporio label.
Taking a basic low-waisted silhouette, he gives the style a contemporary graphic look by defining the shape with contrasting black and white lines. The designer also gives a sculpted twist to yesteryear's crinoline skirt.
The Armani models looked like they just walked out of a tableau from a 1920s beach resort.
They wore chic Panama hats, black high-heeled sandals and carried a transparent beach bag. Think Deauville where Coco Chanel got her first fashion inspirations.D&GD&G attempted a response to a burning fashion question: how many ways can one wear the humble scarf?
Start with a tight minidress that appeared to be fashioned out of four distinct scarves tied on the side and overlapping - though they are expertly stitched together.
Then there was a loose blouse over a short skirt, a bandeau top paired with balloon shorts and short one-piece playsuits, and long skirts with handkerchief hemlines.
Colors were bold and clashing.
D&G even made platform shoes using scarves as straps.
The collection was pure summer and fun, and light enough to pack off for a trip to the beach or fancy port.
FerragamoFerragamo designer Massimiliano Giornetti was decidedly fantasy-driven in the collection previewed on September 25 during Milan Fashion Week - mostly leaving the workaday city behind.
For an exotic getaway, the Ferragamo woman wears chic dresses in chiffon and silk that drape the body elegantly. The dresses sometimes are halters, or knotted to create a sexy bandeau top that wraps sensually around the neck. Colors are bold reds and purples, prints straight out of the tropics.
Sticking to Ferragamo's classic roots, Giornetti sometimes topped the dresses with men's jackets.
For awards season, Ferragamo created gowns that would trigger flashbulbs on any red carpet.
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