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Milan's mosaic of styles for next season
By Yang Di |
March 3, 2013, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
QUITE literally iconic outfits featuring Byzantine-inspired designs, masculine tailoring, baby blue woolens, plus the discreet application of fur, were among diverse looks for fall/winter 2013 unveiled at Milan Fashion Week. Yang Di reports from there.
It may have been a snowy Milan Fashion Week, which ended on Tuesday, but the fashion capital of Italy is all about high drama and its catwalk shows delivered glamor and sophistication designed to out-chill the surroundings or bring some sizzle to the Lombard capital. Fall and winter collections on show included everything from structured lines, body-conscious silhouettes, tailored pieces poised between masculine and feminine through to leather and fur applied in new ways.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have long found a muse in their Sicilian roots and for its "Tailored Mosaic," collection Dolce & Gabbana takes inspiration from Byzantine and Venetian murals in the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily. The collection features the painstaking work of top artisans who created mosaics on shoes, dresses, jewels and bags. For the dramatic finale, models stormed the runway in lace dresses glowing fire-red, enriched with embroidery and stones which took your breath away.
Next winter Gucci woman seeks to seduce through dangerous femininity, explained creative director Frida Giannini. To that end, the collection featured sexy, precisely cut daywear with structured, sculptured lines, roomy coats and jackets worn over slim skirts, plus hints of feathers and spangles. The power-woman vibe was heightened by liberal use of leather and snakeskin.
In contrast to Dolce & Gabbana's heavily decorative pieces and Gucci's edgy femininity, the Giorgio Armani chic-yet-simple collection featured mostly black and emphasized "independent women" with a boyish look. Funky Russian-inspired felt and furry hats were worn with every outfit.
Masculine tailoring was also a feature of the DSquared2 show where twin designers Dean and Dan Caten recreated a wartime jazz club backdrop. Dames-masculines walked down the runway with sinuous swagger, thanks to ultra-tight pencil-skirt suits with silk and camisole lace play peek-a-boo as undergarments beneath the rigid tailoring of classic 1940s silhouettes.
Tweed, pinstripes and wool carry a masculine air while colors of pink blushes, mossy greens, dark sages, smoky lavenders and nutty taupes set the tone.
Fur is a sensitive issue in the fashion world. Some people love it; others despise it. Despite its controversy, fur featured in many collection on the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week, though many houses moved away from lavish fur coats to a more discreet pairing with other materials.
Simonetta Ravizza, presented a refined and relaxed image of the contemporary woman, adhering to a philosophy of mixes and free interpretations transforming fur garments into versatile, multi-functional accessories. The palette is punctuated by natural nuances from cream to different shades of brown, dotted by bright colors as electric blue, red and grass-green.
Soft shades of blue and baby pink were key tones in the Blumarine runway show, as founder/designer Anna Molinari continues to apply her refreshing aesthetics. These complemented soft volumes in ribbed cashmere, wool sweaters and wool slub yarn with loop stitch trim. Coats are extra long, in double cashmere or leather, while the mink finds new identities in a dogtooth print cape and a floral openwork cloak.
Ermanno Scervino subtitled its show "austerity and the yearning for femininity." Discreet charm was expressed through looks in prim grey flannel enriched with luxurious headscarves in soft fur, as well as cashmere sleek-fitting dresses, angora coats and full-length corset organza dresses with feminine tailoring that oozed decadence. Swarovski crystals were also shown on sensual knitwear.
It may have been a snowy Milan Fashion Week, which ended on Tuesday, but the fashion capital of Italy is all about high drama and its catwalk shows delivered glamor and sophistication designed to out-chill the surroundings or bring some sizzle to the Lombard capital. Fall and winter collections on show included everything from structured lines, body-conscious silhouettes, tailored pieces poised between masculine and feminine through to leather and fur applied in new ways.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have long found a muse in their Sicilian roots and for its "Tailored Mosaic," collection Dolce & Gabbana takes inspiration from Byzantine and Venetian murals in the Cathedral of Monreale in Sicily. The collection features the painstaking work of top artisans who created mosaics on shoes, dresses, jewels and bags. For the dramatic finale, models stormed the runway in lace dresses glowing fire-red, enriched with embroidery and stones which took your breath away.
Next winter Gucci woman seeks to seduce through dangerous femininity, explained creative director Frida Giannini. To that end, the collection featured sexy, precisely cut daywear with structured, sculptured lines, roomy coats and jackets worn over slim skirts, plus hints of feathers and spangles. The power-woman vibe was heightened by liberal use of leather and snakeskin.
In contrast to Dolce & Gabbana's heavily decorative pieces and Gucci's edgy femininity, the Giorgio Armani chic-yet-simple collection featured mostly black and emphasized "independent women" with a boyish look. Funky Russian-inspired felt and furry hats were worn with every outfit.
Masculine tailoring was also a feature of the DSquared2 show where twin designers Dean and Dan Caten recreated a wartime jazz club backdrop. Dames-masculines walked down the runway with sinuous swagger, thanks to ultra-tight pencil-skirt suits with silk and camisole lace play peek-a-boo as undergarments beneath the rigid tailoring of classic 1940s silhouettes.
Tweed, pinstripes and wool carry a masculine air while colors of pink blushes, mossy greens, dark sages, smoky lavenders and nutty taupes set the tone.
Fur is a sensitive issue in the fashion world. Some people love it; others despise it. Despite its controversy, fur featured in many collection on the catwalks at Milan Fashion Week, though many houses moved away from lavish fur coats to a more discreet pairing with other materials.
Simonetta Ravizza, presented a refined and relaxed image of the contemporary woman, adhering to a philosophy of mixes and free interpretations transforming fur garments into versatile, multi-functional accessories. The palette is punctuated by natural nuances from cream to different shades of brown, dotted by bright colors as electric blue, red and grass-green.
Soft shades of blue and baby pink were key tones in the Blumarine runway show, as founder/designer Anna Molinari continues to apply her refreshing aesthetics. These complemented soft volumes in ribbed cashmere, wool sweaters and wool slub yarn with loop stitch trim. Coats are extra long, in double cashmere or leather, while the mink finds new identities in a dogtooth print cape and a floral openwork cloak.
Ermanno Scervino subtitled its show "austerity and the yearning for femininity." Discreet charm was expressed through looks in prim grey flannel enriched with luxurious headscarves in soft fur, as well as cashmere sleek-fitting dresses, angora coats and full-length corset organza dresses with feminine tailoring that oozed decadence. Swarovski crystals were also shown on sensual knitwear.
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