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New ideas enliven Milan
By Yang Di |
July 7, 2013, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
EXCITING new textures, high-tech fabrics and tribal inspirations were conjured by Italian designers new to Chinese audiences.
Milan Men's Fashion Week this year not only was a celebration of Italian flair but also featured new technology and exciting concepts from fashion designers and houses not widely known in China.
Denim, new textures, high-tech fabrics and tribal inspirations all shared the stage during the four days shows that closed on June 25.
Florentine designer Ermanno Scervino's show on chic Via Tortona had a contemporaneous feel using denim for next spring/summer season and brought a fresh simplicity to the fashion week.
The designer's creative approach took inspiration from such as Mick Jagger, Marlon Brando, James Dean and Steve McQueen. Denim was presented in separates, double breasted blazers, slim fitting trousers and in different shades and finishes. The black, blue, putty grey, green and orange denim was lacquered in the collection's trousers, jackets, shirts and shoes.
New textured effects included absorbent technical mesh bonded to glossy crepe de Chine. Leather and suede was matched with fine weaves of silk in jackets, duster coats and shirts, while the trousers featured lace transformed by advanced technology. Scervino showcased a light-weight, seductive vibe, adding the perfect twist to casual day wear.
For spring/summer 2014, Missoni continues its focus on innovating knit techniques, introducing a knit fabric made with rubber-coated yarn.
It was the first runway show since the family-run company lost its patriarch, Ottavio Missoni, who died last month. There is still no word on the fate of the Missoni's eldest son, CEO Vittorio Missoni, who disappeared with his wife and four others while flying in a small plane in January.
Creative director Angela Missoni looked to West Africa's radiant textiles and landscapes for inspiration, especially the indigo tie dye textiles of Benin, mud dye clothes of Mali and clothing from the lush rainforests of the Ivory Coast. The collection uses varied print techniques inspired by forest shadows on a scorching day or prints taken from traditional methods of folded tie-dying.
John Richmond's collection is more flashy, meant for the man who can interpret "the ultra modern meets the low-fi of tribalism." An architectural, high-tech impression was created through mixing fabrics, textures and proportions. There was a variety of shades of grey injected with eye-popping colors.
Designers found inspirations in far-flung places and even in the comic books.
Kean Etro looked to masked outlaw el Zorro as muse for the season. He came across Zorro in the comic books when he was a little boy, then as an adult went to Mexico, the land of Zorro's exploits, and fell in love with the land, its history and people.
Inspired by the rodeo-like Mexican sport of charreria, the collection's highly researched and elaborately patchworked materials highlight Etro's expertise in fabric combination.
This season's silhouettes are resolutely masculine. Orange, the signature hue of traditional saddle-makers, takes center stage. Another Mexican tradition is reflected in the straw and leather sombrero re-interpreted using artisan techniques.
Look to rising talents.
One of the Milan's rising talents, Andrea Pompilio, showed his collection for the first time at Giorgio Armani's theater on Via Bergognone, demonstrating Armani's efforts to support young designers.
In 2010, Pompilio launched his first eponymous men's start-up collection with his Italian sensitivity. This time, there were cabana-style suits paved with paisley and batik prints and trench coats and ankle-length trousers in black and rust zebra-like stripes.
Designer Andrea Incontri, born in Mantova, Italy, delved into the aspects of lightness, strength and simplicity, going nautical for inspiration and showing a fun and playful collection that opened with a hooded raincoat.
Strong oceanic shades of color including deep indigo, sky blue, navy and optic white were combined with carmine red and fluorescent orange as the color themes.
Images of waves transforming into one collective collage, techno-industrial effects in blue and white tones, with random pops of color. Stripes took center stage on trench coats, parkas, blazers and jackets.
Milan Men's Fashion Week this year not only was a celebration of Italian flair but also featured new technology and exciting concepts from fashion designers and houses not widely known in China.
Denim, new textures, high-tech fabrics and tribal inspirations all shared the stage during the four days shows that closed on June 25.
Florentine designer Ermanno Scervino's show on chic Via Tortona had a contemporaneous feel using denim for next spring/summer season and brought a fresh simplicity to the fashion week.
The designer's creative approach took inspiration from such as Mick Jagger, Marlon Brando, James Dean and Steve McQueen. Denim was presented in separates, double breasted blazers, slim fitting trousers and in different shades and finishes. The black, blue, putty grey, green and orange denim was lacquered in the collection's trousers, jackets, shirts and shoes.
New textured effects included absorbent technical mesh bonded to glossy crepe de Chine. Leather and suede was matched with fine weaves of silk in jackets, duster coats and shirts, while the trousers featured lace transformed by advanced technology. Scervino showcased a light-weight, seductive vibe, adding the perfect twist to casual day wear.
For spring/summer 2014, Missoni continues its focus on innovating knit techniques, introducing a knit fabric made with rubber-coated yarn.
It was the first runway show since the family-run company lost its patriarch, Ottavio Missoni, who died last month. There is still no word on the fate of the Missoni's eldest son, CEO Vittorio Missoni, who disappeared with his wife and four others while flying in a small plane in January.
Creative director Angela Missoni looked to West Africa's radiant textiles and landscapes for inspiration, especially the indigo tie dye textiles of Benin, mud dye clothes of Mali and clothing from the lush rainforests of the Ivory Coast. The collection uses varied print techniques inspired by forest shadows on a scorching day or prints taken from traditional methods of folded tie-dying.
John Richmond's collection is more flashy, meant for the man who can interpret "the ultra modern meets the low-fi of tribalism." An architectural, high-tech impression was created through mixing fabrics, textures and proportions. There was a variety of shades of grey injected with eye-popping colors.
Designers found inspirations in far-flung places and even in the comic books.
Kean Etro looked to masked outlaw el Zorro as muse for the season. He came across Zorro in the comic books when he was a little boy, then as an adult went to Mexico, the land of Zorro's exploits, and fell in love with the land, its history and people.
Inspired by the rodeo-like Mexican sport of charreria, the collection's highly researched and elaborately patchworked materials highlight Etro's expertise in fabric combination.
This season's silhouettes are resolutely masculine. Orange, the signature hue of traditional saddle-makers, takes center stage. Another Mexican tradition is reflected in the straw and leather sombrero re-interpreted using artisan techniques.
Look to rising talents.
One of the Milan's rising talents, Andrea Pompilio, showed his collection for the first time at Giorgio Armani's theater on Via Bergognone, demonstrating Armani's efforts to support young designers.
In 2010, Pompilio launched his first eponymous men's start-up collection with his Italian sensitivity. This time, there were cabana-style suits paved with paisley and batik prints and trench coats and ankle-length trousers in black and rust zebra-like stripes.
Designer Andrea Incontri, born in Mantova, Italy, delved into the aspects of lightness, strength and simplicity, going nautical for inspiration and showing a fun and playful collection that opened with a hooded raincoat.
Strong oceanic shades of color including deep indigo, sky blue, navy and optic white were combined with carmine red and fluorescent orange as the color themes.
Images of waves transforming into one collective collage, techno-industrial effects in blue and white tones, with random pops of color. Stripes took center stage on trench coats, parkas, blazers and jackets.
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