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Next summer's styles in bloom
Source: Agencies/Shanghai Daily |
June 30, 2013, Sunday
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Print Edition
Print Edition
SUMMER 2014 looks made their catwalk debuts at Milan Menswear Fashion Week this week, with designers offering everything from techno fabrics and see-through plexiglass lace ups to floral prints matched with pinstripes and geometric patterns ? not forgetting sand-strewn runways.
Armani
When it comes to style, Giorgio Armani never disappoints.
The new second line Emporio collection presented at the spring/summer menswear 2014 preview shows is more about research than about shape.
Presenting an elegant wardrobe entitled "Digital," Armani takes classic menswear favorites - suits, jackets, shirts, slacks and pullovers - and makes them contemporary through the use of techno fabrics and laser techniques.
Shapes become extra light, linings disappear and zippers and press studs replace buttons. Heat welding gets rid of seams, as in the rough-cut light wool jacket or the straight-legged trouser with pleated waist for extra comfort.
Colors range from Armani blue to teal green, to putty beige and ice white, all made more luminous by high-tech mingling of cotton and yarns. Punctures are laser etched into super soft leather, creating a digital effect.
Prada
Miuccia Prada says she is questioning the very meaning of summer and the exotic in her latest menswear designs.
In a presentation of the 2014 summer collection at Milan Fashion Week, Prada has delivered satin floral prints that are clearly associated with the Pacific, and pairs them not with the classic linen gin-and-tonic suit, but with a traditional double-breasted pin stripe.
Her reference point in the collection is clearly the 1940s. The designer has returned to the old-fashioned carry-on luggage - no trollies, please - with bold designs, including tropical florals and Hawaiian girls. The period references on the luggage were also backdrops: graphic prints of palm trees, postcard sunsets and images of water.
Asked her inspiration, Prada laughed and said: "I would have to tell my whole life," but then conceded that she was "questioning the cliche of summer and the exotic."
Gucci
The Gucci menswear collection for next summer is short and very sweet.
When after only 10 minutes the models returned for the finale parade, the crowd still had their notebooks open waiting for more of creative director Frida Giannini's romantic take on next summer.
The show was all about flowers, even if the silhouette is classic from the blazer to riding pants.
Flowers show up everywhere, from embroidery on the cotton knit sweaters to the floral prints that tinge pants, T-shirts, suits and a reinvented Mackintosh raincoat. Floral prints are also used for a silk jumpsuit and the latest Gucci jacket, in the style of a shirt, a popular look on the Milan runway.
The summer color palette ranges from neutral white, gray and beige to blue and bordeaux, to flashes of military green, yellow and coral.
Ferragamo
The Ferragamo summer promises to be young and carefree, with Bermuda shorts, leather sandals and a large backpack the only musts for the warm weather traveler.
To set the mood for the colorful 2014 menswear collection, Massimiliano Giornetti, the label's creative director, created a suitably atmospheric backdrop - a long, white runway was set off by a big blue sky projected on a mega screen.
Giornetti at times took the summer suit trend of Bermuda shorts and a matching jacket a step further by cutting the sleeves off the jacket, or using unconventional colors such as pea green and lobster red.
The designer also favored large geometric patterns and light and billowy overcoats.
Next summer's footwear features a sturdy sports sandal, worn with bare feet or a funky crumpled leather sock.
The new Ferragamo backpack comes in luxurious leather, and is reminiscent of an old-fashioned mountaineering bag.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director and designer for Fendi, say in their show notes that they want to prepare men for the summer elements - heat, drying, cracking and especially sand.
The latter was emphasized by the yellow sand piled on the runway of their latest collection presented Monday during menswear fashion week and inspired by a desert heat wave.
Expanding on the desert theme, Fendi offered utilitarian jackets either reversible or with detachable sleeves and taped on pockets. Leather is worked to have a previously cracked surface whose lines can only get deeper with exposure. Lace-up shoes are colorless, so that fading is not an issue.
The summer palette sticks to the environmental, mixing accents of terracotta, ochre, chalk and coal. Pixilated prints add a contemporary touch.
Bottega Veneta
For next summer Tomas Maier, the acclaimed creative director of luxury goods brand Bottega Veneta, is inviting customers to walk in his shoes.
In his latest menswear collection, Maier used the traditional Bottega leather weave for loafers, lace-ups and even sidewalk slippers. Usually, it's reserved for women's handbags.
The luxurious artisan footwear came in brown or black and accompanied all of the outfits in the classic collection.
According to his fashion notes, "contrast" was the theme of Maier's 2014 preview collection.
The show opened with a series of suits with a soft-shouldered, wide-sleeved jacket and narrow pants. Contrast came in the white lines stitched into the classic look referencing the chalk marks used for fittings in bespoke tailoring, creating imaginary lapels and pockets.
Further into the show, the German designer contrasted black and white in a checkerboard fashion game. For example, a black knit sweater is worn with checked trousers, or a checked sports jacket is matched with a pair of white trousers.
Although most of the collection is in the staple muted hues, which define the discreet Bottega Veneta look, Maier dabbles into, aubergine, brick red and olive green to liven up his summer look.
Armani
When it comes to style, Giorgio Armani never disappoints.
The new second line Emporio collection presented at the spring/summer menswear 2014 preview shows is more about research than about shape.
Presenting an elegant wardrobe entitled "Digital," Armani takes classic menswear favorites - suits, jackets, shirts, slacks and pullovers - and makes them contemporary through the use of techno fabrics and laser techniques.
Shapes become extra light, linings disappear and zippers and press studs replace buttons. Heat welding gets rid of seams, as in the rough-cut light wool jacket or the straight-legged trouser with pleated waist for extra comfort.
Colors range from Armani blue to teal green, to putty beige and ice white, all made more luminous by high-tech mingling of cotton and yarns. Punctures are laser etched into super soft leather, creating a digital effect.
Prada
Miuccia Prada says she is questioning the very meaning of summer and the exotic in her latest menswear designs.
In a presentation of the 2014 summer collection at Milan Fashion Week, Prada has delivered satin floral prints that are clearly associated with the Pacific, and pairs them not with the classic linen gin-and-tonic suit, but with a traditional double-breasted pin stripe.
Her reference point in the collection is clearly the 1940s. The designer has returned to the old-fashioned carry-on luggage - no trollies, please - with bold designs, including tropical florals and Hawaiian girls. The period references on the luggage were also backdrops: graphic prints of palm trees, postcard sunsets and images of water.
Asked her inspiration, Prada laughed and said: "I would have to tell my whole life," but then conceded that she was "questioning the cliche of summer and the exotic."
Gucci
The Gucci menswear collection for next summer is short and very sweet.
When after only 10 minutes the models returned for the finale parade, the crowd still had their notebooks open waiting for more of creative director Frida Giannini's romantic take on next summer.
The show was all about flowers, even if the silhouette is classic from the blazer to riding pants.
Flowers show up everywhere, from embroidery on the cotton knit sweaters to the floral prints that tinge pants, T-shirts, suits and a reinvented Mackintosh raincoat. Floral prints are also used for a silk jumpsuit and the latest Gucci jacket, in the style of a shirt, a popular look on the Milan runway.
The summer color palette ranges from neutral white, gray and beige to blue and bordeaux, to flashes of military green, yellow and coral.
Ferragamo
The Ferragamo summer promises to be young and carefree, with Bermuda shorts, leather sandals and a large backpack the only musts for the warm weather traveler.
To set the mood for the colorful 2014 menswear collection, Massimiliano Giornetti, the label's creative director, created a suitably atmospheric backdrop - a long, white runway was set off by a big blue sky projected on a mega screen.
Giornetti at times took the summer suit trend of Bermuda shorts and a matching jacket a step further by cutting the sleeves off the jacket, or using unconventional colors such as pea green and lobster red.
The designer also favored large geometric patterns and light and billowy overcoats.
Next summer's footwear features a sturdy sports sandal, worn with bare feet or a funky crumpled leather sock.
The new Ferragamo backpack comes in luxurious leather, and is reminiscent of an old-fashioned mountaineering bag.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director and designer for Fendi, say in their show notes that they want to prepare men for the summer elements - heat, drying, cracking and especially sand.
The latter was emphasized by the yellow sand piled on the runway of their latest collection presented Monday during menswear fashion week and inspired by a desert heat wave.
Expanding on the desert theme, Fendi offered utilitarian jackets either reversible or with detachable sleeves and taped on pockets. Leather is worked to have a previously cracked surface whose lines can only get deeper with exposure. Lace-up shoes are colorless, so that fading is not an issue.
The summer palette sticks to the environmental, mixing accents of terracotta, ochre, chalk and coal. Pixilated prints add a contemporary touch.
Bottega Veneta
For next summer Tomas Maier, the acclaimed creative director of luxury goods brand Bottega Veneta, is inviting customers to walk in his shoes.
In his latest menswear collection, Maier used the traditional Bottega leather weave for loafers, lace-ups and even sidewalk slippers. Usually, it's reserved for women's handbags.
The luxurious artisan footwear came in brown or black and accompanied all of the outfits in the classic collection.
According to his fashion notes, "contrast" was the theme of Maier's 2014 preview collection.
The show opened with a series of suits with a soft-shouldered, wide-sleeved jacket and narrow pants. Contrast came in the white lines stitched into the classic look referencing the chalk marks used for fittings in bespoke tailoring, creating imaginary lapels and pockets.
Further into the show, the German designer contrasted black and white in a checkerboard fashion game. For example, a black knit sweater is worn with checked trousers, or a checked sports jacket is matched with a pair of white trousers.
Although most of the collection is in the staple muted hues, which define the discreet Bottega Veneta look, Maier dabbles into, aubergine, brick red and olive green to liven up his summer look.
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