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Put color on your cheeks
By Samantha Critchell |
April 24, 2011, Sunday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
IT was the eyes, then the lips. Now, the beauty world is homing in on the cheeks.
"I think this look is a big drink of water," says Benefit co-founder Jean Ford. After so many seasons of smoky eyes and bright lips, this is a refreshing change that really embraces a warm-weather spirit, she says.
Color is the spring buzzword, says Pati Dubroff, celebrity beauty artist for Clarins, so no more playing it safe on the cheeks.
A little blush goes a long way, however, so makeup experts note that women might need a refresher course in application, color choices and what to do with the rest of their face.
"A pop of bright blush is totally doable and can look very pretty when done right," says Dubroff. She applies that pop right on the apples of cheeks.
Where is the apple?
It's the highest point of your cheek, which is easiest to find if you smile with a closed mouth, explains Laura Mercier's global artistry director Matin Maulawizada. Concentrate the color there.
"Look at a baby's face. You can see their apple very easily, mimic that," Maulawizada says. "As you get older, you'll have redness in places you don't want, so don't use that as a guideline."
On photo shoots, he'll sometimes put blush in the hollow area below the apple, but that's not for everyday life, Maulawizada says.
Nars national makeup artist Francelle Daly found a spot between the apple and the hollow for the models in the spring Marc Jacobs show. She liked the result - "It looked like the models were blushing," she says - but that took some trial and error. "As you experiment with color on your cheeks, it becomes easier."
To choose a color that works for your skin tone, work in the palette that you already use - maybe you prefer pinks, corals or peaches - and then choose a shade or two brighter for blush. Maulawizada suggests pushing your index finger against your thumb. "It'll turn red, and that red is your red. It could be a warm or cool shade depending on your coloring. And you can go lighter or darker with the blush, but that's your range to work with."
Other tips from the pros:
--- If using a powder blush, fill your brush with color -- dipping both sides in - and then blow off any excess, says Benefit's Ford. Apply it moving in gentle strokes upward outward toward the hairline.
- Women who pull out their brushes and drag them back and forth under their cheekbones end up with a very 1980s look -- too 1980s, says Maulawizada.
- Daly prefers working with creams because they blend well, especially as they warm up next to the skin. She finds them an easy building block, too, if you also wear foundation or tinted moisturizer. You can even mix the cheek color with foundation or moisturizer.
If you have oily skin, though, Daly suggests a powder blush.
- Before applying blush, take the time to even out your skin tone, advises Ford, which creates the smooth canvas.
"I say, even out the skin, fringe the lashes with mascara, put on a little lipstick. Dare to go bare everywhere else. ... It's the Summer of Love right on your face," says Ford.
The interest in bright blush complements all the 1970s-inspired fashion this spring, but the path from the past isn't a direct route when it comes to cosmetics because formulas have improved over the years. They'll go on more evenly, look more natural and last longer.
Nars' Daly is also glad that the days of Color Me Beautiful, the matchy-matchy makeup palette popular a generation ago, is largely gone.
Yes, she says, she likes the monochromatic popular this spring with a light pinky-peach cheek, with just a shade lighter for eye shadow and lip gloss, but color cosmetics are also supposed to be fun, not bland or boring, either.
Pledge to yourself that on one hot summer night, you'll bust out the tropical pink cheek and the turquoise eyeliner to go with it.
"I think this look is a big drink of water," says Benefit co-founder Jean Ford. After so many seasons of smoky eyes and bright lips, this is a refreshing change that really embraces a warm-weather spirit, she says.
Color is the spring buzzword, says Pati Dubroff, celebrity beauty artist for Clarins, so no more playing it safe on the cheeks.
A little blush goes a long way, however, so makeup experts note that women might need a refresher course in application, color choices and what to do with the rest of their face.
"A pop of bright blush is totally doable and can look very pretty when done right," says Dubroff. She applies that pop right on the apples of cheeks.
Where is the apple?
It's the highest point of your cheek, which is easiest to find if you smile with a closed mouth, explains Laura Mercier's global artistry director Matin Maulawizada. Concentrate the color there.
"Look at a baby's face. You can see their apple very easily, mimic that," Maulawizada says. "As you get older, you'll have redness in places you don't want, so don't use that as a guideline."
On photo shoots, he'll sometimes put blush in the hollow area below the apple, but that's not for everyday life, Maulawizada says.
Nars national makeup artist Francelle Daly found a spot between the apple and the hollow for the models in the spring Marc Jacobs show. She liked the result - "It looked like the models were blushing," she says - but that took some trial and error. "As you experiment with color on your cheeks, it becomes easier."
To choose a color that works for your skin tone, work in the palette that you already use - maybe you prefer pinks, corals or peaches - and then choose a shade or two brighter for blush. Maulawizada suggests pushing your index finger against your thumb. "It'll turn red, and that red is your red. It could be a warm or cool shade depending on your coloring. And you can go lighter or darker with the blush, but that's your range to work with."
Other tips from the pros:
--- If using a powder blush, fill your brush with color -- dipping both sides in - and then blow off any excess, says Benefit's Ford. Apply it moving in gentle strokes upward outward toward the hairline.
- Women who pull out their brushes and drag them back and forth under their cheekbones end up with a very 1980s look -- too 1980s, says Maulawizada.
- Daly prefers working with creams because they blend well, especially as they warm up next to the skin. She finds them an easy building block, too, if you also wear foundation or tinted moisturizer. You can even mix the cheek color with foundation or moisturizer.
If you have oily skin, though, Daly suggests a powder blush.
- Before applying blush, take the time to even out your skin tone, advises Ford, which creates the smooth canvas.
"I say, even out the skin, fringe the lashes with mascara, put on a little lipstick. Dare to go bare everywhere else. ... It's the Summer of Love right on your face," says Ford.
The interest in bright blush complements all the 1970s-inspired fashion this spring, but the path from the past isn't a direct route when it comes to cosmetics because formulas have improved over the years. They'll go on more evenly, look more natural and last longer.
Nars' Daly is also glad that the days of Color Me Beautiful, the matchy-matchy makeup palette popular a generation ago, is largely gone.
Yes, she says, she likes the monochromatic popular this spring with a light pinky-peach cheek, with just a shade lighter for eye shadow and lip gloss, but color cosmetics are also supposed to be fun, not bland or boring, either.
Pledge to yourself that on one hot summer night, you'll bust out the tropical pink cheek and the turquoise eyeliner to go with it.
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