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Putting on the glitz for Big Apple show
September 16, 2012, Sunday
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DESIGNERS showed off their 2013 spring collections at New York fashion week from September 5 to 13. Marc Jacobs made a splash with stripes as Vera Wang found inspiration from Indian clothes while Rodarte showcased a strong medieval look.
Vera Wang
Vera Wang's India-inspired clothes were quiet, delicate and lovely, sometimes requiring a trained eye to notice Wang's nod to the Nehru collar or choli jacket. They invoked India without ornate trappings or touristy gimmicks.
"The collection is out of India, but India is just the starting point," Wang said in a backstage interview. "There is no belly dancing, there are no sarongs, there are no saris. It is about the sort of discipline about Indian men's clothes like Nehru, against the mystery and sensuality of Indian women - but not literally."
Alexander Wang
The audience at Alexander Wang is trained to know the best is coming last.
The mostly inventive black-and-white, pieced-leather looks that filled the first part of the show would have held Wang's place as one of the princes of cool. There were sporty parkas, tops inspired by hockey jerseys and even some more refined halter dresses.
Wang could have called it a collection and be done with it.
However, the final parade of nine models - all wearing a cream color - had their embroidered tank tops, pencil skirts, crewneck dresses and Bermuda shorts turn into glow-in-the-dark lightsticks when they assumed a final pose on the runway and the lights went out.
Ralph Lauren
Statement made, Ralph Lauren: Be strong. Be bold. Go on that adventure.
The first look on Ralph Lauren's runway featured a turquoise suede poet top, with cascading ruffles down the front, and the model wore a beret and carried a studded motorcycle bag. From there, it was a bright red hand-crocheted tank dress and a few looks later was a tomato red suede jacket with rustic brown leather details.
A colorful blanket-style serape was getting buzz from editors and stylists before they even left the downtown show space. Lauren offered the same idea - in the same green, brown and yellow colors - in an off-the-shoulder serape wrap top that probably more easily fits into the closets of most customers.
There were beaded bolero jackets and embellished jodhpur pants, with flat-top hats and colorful scarves around some models' necks. But taking each piece on its own, it wasn't a costume.
Calvin Klein
Francisco Costa, women's creative director at Calvin Klein, got to have final say Thursday at New York Fashion Week as one of the last major designers to preview a spring collection, but he left a purposeful impression of things left undone.
Costa has a knack for the "seductive lines," he mentioned in his notes. He certainly drew eyes to the bust and bodice, offering a series of conical bustiers, which were exactly what they sound like. Calvin Klein continued the many layers of fabrics and textures that have dominated the runways: an abstract lace dress goes over a lacquered satin bustier and a bonded mesh skirt, for example.
Marc Jacobs
The chatter at New York Fashion Week has been about softening the edges, but Marc Jacobs changed the conversation - as he often does - after going graphic.
Black-and-white stripes followed by red stripes, tan stripes and more black-and-white stripes came rapid fire down the runway.
There was a mod mood to the spring collection, especially the short T-shirt dresses with scalloped hemlines.
There was more than stripes - including some ruffle-front skirt suits - but it was everything horizontal and vertical that left an impression.
Rodarte
Punk met the medieval princess on the catwalk at Rodarte, where the design-duo sisters said they were inspired by medieval and role-playing games.
Laura and Kate Mulleavy took the edge off grommet-covered leather pants by pairing them with silk blouses, and toughened up a brocade organza dress with a leather embroidered bodice.
But don't mistake this spring collection for anything but modern: The chunky shoe made of mixed materials and a computer-cut heel made sure of that.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham's show not only looks like her signature pulled-together, well-edited style, but it feels like her, too.
She's the thoughtful hostess with waiters offering morning juice to the crowd at the New York Public Library, but she keeps the guest list very tight. She's one of the biggest draws of the week, but there's no frenzy of paparazzi photographers. Her husband David Beckham, however, did take some photos from his seat.
Victoria Beckham said she checks - or doublechecks - every look to make sure "it looks good from every angle."
The clothes for spring had a delicacy that she said was new for her this season, although the clothes remained substantial and structured. It was the touch of illusion lace, the lingerie bra top or hemline of pleated chiffon that took the edge off banded short skirts, zip-back sheaths and shirtdresses.
"I want to design what I want to wear," said Victoria Beckham.
Vera Wang
Vera Wang's India-inspired clothes were quiet, delicate and lovely, sometimes requiring a trained eye to notice Wang's nod to the Nehru collar or choli jacket. They invoked India without ornate trappings or touristy gimmicks.
"The collection is out of India, but India is just the starting point," Wang said in a backstage interview. "There is no belly dancing, there are no sarongs, there are no saris. It is about the sort of discipline about Indian men's clothes like Nehru, against the mystery and sensuality of Indian women - but not literally."
Alexander Wang
The audience at Alexander Wang is trained to know the best is coming last.
The mostly inventive black-and-white, pieced-leather looks that filled the first part of the show would have held Wang's place as one of the princes of cool. There were sporty parkas, tops inspired by hockey jerseys and even some more refined halter dresses.
Wang could have called it a collection and be done with it.
However, the final parade of nine models - all wearing a cream color - had their embroidered tank tops, pencil skirts, crewneck dresses and Bermuda shorts turn into glow-in-the-dark lightsticks when they assumed a final pose on the runway and the lights went out.
Ralph Lauren
Statement made, Ralph Lauren: Be strong. Be bold. Go on that adventure.
The first look on Ralph Lauren's runway featured a turquoise suede poet top, with cascading ruffles down the front, and the model wore a beret and carried a studded motorcycle bag. From there, it was a bright red hand-crocheted tank dress and a few looks later was a tomato red suede jacket with rustic brown leather details.
A colorful blanket-style serape was getting buzz from editors and stylists before they even left the downtown show space. Lauren offered the same idea - in the same green, brown and yellow colors - in an off-the-shoulder serape wrap top that probably more easily fits into the closets of most customers.
There were beaded bolero jackets and embellished jodhpur pants, with flat-top hats and colorful scarves around some models' necks. But taking each piece on its own, it wasn't a costume.
Calvin Klein
Francisco Costa, women's creative director at Calvin Klein, got to have final say Thursday at New York Fashion Week as one of the last major designers to preview a spring collection, but he left a purposeful impression of things left undone.
Costa has a knack for the "seductive lines," he mentioned in his notes. He certainly drew eyes to the bust and bodice, offering a series of conical bustiers, which were exactly what they sound like. Calvin Klein continued the many layers of fabrics and textures that have dominated the runways: an abstract lace dress goes over a lacquered satin bustier and a bonded mesh skirt, for example.
Marc Jacobs
The chatter at New York Fashion Week has been about softening the edges, but Marc Jacobs changed the conversation - as he often does - after going graphic.
Black-and-white stripes followed by red stripes, tan stripes and more black-and-white stripes came rapid fire down the runway.
There was a mod mood to the spring collection, especially the short T-shirt dresses with scalloped hemlines.
There was more than stripes - including some ruffle-front skirt suits - but it was everything horizontal and vertical that left an impression.
Rodarte
Punk met the medieval princess on the catwalk at Rodarte, where the design-duo sisters said they were inspired by medieval and role-playing games.
Laura and Kate Mulleavy took the edge off grommet-covered leather pants by pairing them with silk blouses, and toughened up a brocade organza dress with a leather embroidered bodice.
But don't mistake this spring collection for anything but modern: The chunky shoe made of mixed materials and a computer-cut heel made sure of that.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham's show not only looks like her signature pulled-together, well-edited style, but it feels like her, too.
She's the thoughtful hostess with waiters offering morning juice to the crowd at the New York Public Library, but she keeps the guest list very tight. She's one of the biggest draws of the week, but there's no frenzy of paparazzi photographers. Her husband David Beckham, however, did take some photos from his seat.
Victoria Beckham said she checks - or doublechecks - every look to make sure "it looks good from every angle."
The clothes for spring had a delicacy that she said was new for her this season, although the clothes remained substantial and structured. It was the touch of illusion lace, the lingerie bra top or hemline of pleated chiffon that took the edge off banded short skirts, zip-back sheaths and shirtdresses.
"I want to design what I want to wear," said Victoria Beckham.
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