Straight from the runway
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SPRING-SUMMER couture shows blossomed into focus this week — parading their silken, and often sexy, savoir faire to front rows spilling with celebrities from Uma Thurman, Kate Bosworth to Rita Ora.
Here are the highlights of the 2016 collections.
Ralph & Russo’s star power
Proving there are serious contenders in the couture calendar, relative newcomers Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo are drawing the big names to their collections. Pulp Fiction star Thurman set off the cameras naps arriving in a LBD and silk shawl at the Monday afternoon show.
The youthful-looking 45-year-old is in the City of Light to attend a private dinner hosted by the couture house and by French jewelry brand Chopard.
The event included a musical performance by Ora.
Chanel gets curvy for spring
It was delicate couture magic with a hint of reality.
Chanel’s sports-infused display saw sparkling smooth oval shoulders and curved collars define the silhouette on fastidiously embroidered gowns and skirt suits.
This curved aesthetic — apparent also in oversize bulbous chignons, curved cork platforms and unusual double-eye makeup — was inspired by the 1932 cubist sculpture “Head of a Woman” by Pablo Picasso.
But this was at times a very contemporary collection with assorted iPhone pockets hanging loosely from the models’ waists.
The eveningwear was somewhat more enchanted with strapless dresses or pants with a train complemented by painted capes with wide-cut boleros or embroidered jackets.
Valentino’s airy and vertical couture
Valentino designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri described their collection as an “airy and vertical” approach to couture.
Yet this description missed so much. It was a truly divine collection of flowing column gowns that played deftly on classical references.
Inspired by 1900s fashion designer Mariano Fortuny, the designs mixed up fluid Greco-Roman silhouettes with those of more embellished Eastern Byzantine.
A loose, white velvet dress sported gentle gold handmade impressions and a twisted Grecian knot down one arm. Other crepe gowns evoked a tunic silhouette.
Gaultier’s 1980s theater
At Wednesday’s show the fashion dial was turned to the beginning of the ‘80s.
Sequined pill box hats, strong shouldered tuxedos, jumpsuits, silken pajama suits, and big, big hair dazed guests at the high-energy show delivered with a funky 1980s soundtrack.
The litany of stars that graced the famed Palace venue were the inspirations for the designer’s myriad 69 looks.
Grace Jones was reimagined in a dull shimmering black-and-brown sequined jumpsuit and brown lace robe.
Dior’s take on the Parisienne
Christian Dior mixed the “spontaneous, relaxed Parisienne of today” with the iconic styles of the 1940s and 1950s.
High-cut post-War shoes with occasional retro ankle bows accessorized embroidered silk gowns in freestyle volumes — often with “sensual, bare” accentuated shoulders. A couple of flapper-style lace, chiffon and tulle look also evoked the joyful feeling of the 1920s — the period between the two World Wars.
The studio team also set about experimenting with the famed “bar jacket” — it “changes appearance depending on whether it is worn closed or loose,” said the program notes.
Armani Prive’s watery show
Armani’s timeless couture show was as if washed with water — attended by stars Iggy Azalea, Charlotte Rampling and Juliette Binoche.
Blue, purples and turquoises graced the long line of narrowly-changing silhouettes.
Wave-like ruffles graced dark pants, a blouse resembled a shellfish, and a pale purple embroidered jumpsuit conjured the silhouette and scaly texture of a mermaid.
The 59-piece collection showcased looks of pure luxury in shimmering pale silks, chiffon, tulle and satin with emphasis on sweeping ball gowns, 1930s short or A-line minis.
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