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Summer 2015 collections sizzle with sheer style
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MILAN Fashion Week showcases a wide variety of styles with Giorgio Armani finding inspiration from sand, Ferragamo playing with animal prints and Dolce&Gabbana traveling to Sicily.
Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce&Gabbana continues its survey of conquests of their beloved Sicily, rendering into ready-to-wear fashion cultural traces left behind by these sometimes ill-fated adventures.
After incorporating Norman traces for winter looks, it was on to Spain’s influence on the oft-conquered Sicily for next summer’s womenswear looks during Milan Fashion Week.
The looks were fierce, as in matador jackets worn with high-waist bubble shorts, romantic, as indicated by a heart-and-rhinestone encrusted red jacket paired with a flowing black lace skirt, and sexy, with trademark corsets worn with stockings or a sheer black skirt.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani opened his womenswear preview for next summer with a short art film by Oscar-winner Paolo Sorrentino titled “Sand,” the weather-beaten grains that inspired the designer’s latest collection.
The designer tapped into the Mediterranean’s cultural richness with flowing wrapped Greek- and Roman-inspired evening dresses, transparent tapering trousers recalling harem pants, tribal rings layered around the neck and hair tightly braided into crowns. The tribute reached a crescendo with a regal Cleopatra figure enveloped in diaphanous robe, wearing a cascading headdress and holding a purse aloft. The collection also projected a modern, urban feel.
Ferragamo
Massimiliano Giornetti of Ferragamo is perfecting the marriage of leather goods and apparel with seamless creations that honor the brand’s dual traditions.
Nowhere was that better exemplified during the Salvatore Ferragamo womenswear preview than in halter dresses with a reptile bodice that flowed right into a knit skirt with the lightest tulle underlay for an ethereal effect. It was complemented by a clutch with fringe cascading out of the side.
Approaching the union from another angle, Giornetti played with animal prints, creating, for example, an oversized snakeskin print that projected an edgy graphic effect, down to the natural yellow accents.
Cross-directional ribbing gave movement to dresses that wrapped assuredly around the bodice, while leather belts defined the flattering silhouette. Voluminous trousers moved like skirts.
Missoni
Angela Missoni’s collection was a study in lightness and air.
Models billowed by in diaphanous, maxi-dresses to a haunting Chinese-language version of the Sinead O’Conner classic, “Nothing Compares 2U.”
The knitwear was as light as air and as delicate as lace, taking shape with each step before falling lightly to reveal the form below — an alluring mix of modesty and revelation.
The collection was refreshingly on season. While fashion houses are generally practicing a form of runway climate flattening, blurring the lines between seasons to satisfy the global luxury market, there was no question it was summer at Missoni.
The color palate ranged from sunset pastels to watery aquamarine to shimmery silver and fiery pink and orange. The emphasis was on comfort and relaxation. Missoni alternated light knitwear with printed silk.
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