A week of fairy tales in Milan
Print Edition
Milan Fashion Week brings out the playfulness of designers as Dolce&Gabbana takes inspiration from children’s fairy tales, Missoni goes with comfort for “free-spirited women” and the Jil Sander collection restates the house’s preference for simplicity.
Dolce&Gabbana
Never has little Red Riding Hood been so fashionable.
In Dolce&Gabbana’s Sicilian fairy tale collection, she enters in a green cape with a pair of applique red wolves sitting in wait in a forest.
Further along, closer to grandma’s house, there’s a costume change into a tweed top with even bigger fox appliques, the better to see you with, worn with a luxurious red fur hood and, a real novelty, fur-accented panties. Then there’s a luxurious red fur with matching hood, all the better to eat you with, my dear.
Dolce&Gabbana mined a rich vein of romance for their “Once Upon a Time in Sicily” womenswear collection for next fall and winter, which previewed on the fifth day of Milan Fashion Week.
Missoni
The Missoni woman is free and relaxed, comfortable enough to wear oversized men’s jackets over soft, form-fitting dresses, easy sportswear or swinging skirt.
The collection is for “a free-spirited woman,” designer Angela Missoni said. She wants to be comfortable with masculine outerwear like parkas, a hunting jacket or gilet, but “the silhouette underneath is close to the body,” Missoni said.
The knit-work was bold and graphic, rather than the traditional tight Missoni zigzag, and the colors were soothing pastels contrasted by flashes of turquoise, mustard and orange. Colored booties, and sometimes berets with a crochet lining, finished the looks.
Versace
Donatella Versace’s womenswear collection for next winter tells a story of a woman who battles and emerges victorious.
The story starts with a simple female warrior, a soldier low in the ranks with just a smattering of gold buttons on the bias-cut uniform, snug-yet-modest dress.
The mood intensifies with double-breasted military style coat with epaulets, a short colored fur with metal buttons down the V-front, a cropped military jacket worn with slim trousers and satin-finish dress capes. And the collection wraps up with form-fitting sensual silky dresses worn with gold-embroidered macrame sashes and one big golden medal, Olympic style. Her victory is clear.
Jil Sander
Since Jil Sander left her eponymous brand again last fall, the label has carried on with a team of anonymous designers.
Judging from next winter’s womenswear looks, the brand’s minimalist DNA remains strong. The mood was soothing, the palate permeated by the palest monochromes of gray, blue, sage, pink and peach — with favorite black and emerald projecting more strength.
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