Ancient water town without crowds
By Wing Tan |
May 28, 2012, Monday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
WITH a history of more than 1,300 years, Shaxi water town in the middle of Taicang City remains unspoiled and intact.
"It's such a boring town. I just don't understand why you're here. There is nothing to see except old buildings," said a snack shop owner, who was busy transferring long noodles into a basket for cooling.
Strolling along the cobblestone main street, a visitor can be forgiven for feeling a step back in time.
Unlike the crowded streets and noisy tourist shops that mark many famous ancient water towns in China, Shaxi is like a sleeping beauty, unscathed and ignored by the hustle-bustle of the outside world.
There are no souvenir shops nor annoying tourism touts here, claiming to offer guided free tours. Shaxi's greatest strength is the ebb and flow of daily life as it has existed for a long time. There are a few shops selling antique furniture, cooking local dumplings, fixing locks, grinding scissors and turning out clothes for the newborn and even the newly deceased.
Qian Zhongfa, 56, has been writing the obituaries for local residents for more than 30 years. "The town hasn't changed much since I was little," he said.
Along the street, a river flows. Three old stone bridges cross over, connecting the small town to the outside world.
All the old houses hang over the river. "It's the biggest difference from Zhouzhuang and Tongli towns," Zhou Li, 60, said, comparing Shaxi with more famous water towns. Zhou lives on the main street.
The old houses that feature elaborate carvings on doors and window edges were built during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Paint peels from wooden posts.
In 2009, the local government invested 200 million yuan (US$31.6 million) to renovate the old town. Tap water, electric power, gas and sewage systems were installed to every household. "It facilitated our daily life greatly and also stopped locals pouring dirty water into the river," Zhou said.
One of the highlights on the street is Gongshi Hall, once the residence of a local wealthy family. The hall features delicate carvings and ancient Chinese paintings and calligraphy. Its back garden features a rockery and a small pavilion built on a peaceful pond.
For those with time to spare, a boat ride on the river affords a picturesque view of the whole town. The woman rowing the boat said she has been offering her service to visitors for about three years. She looks to be about 50, and has an easy-going smile.
"Life is simple here," she said. "I guess it's more of a place for old people like me."
Will this quiet, scenic backwater eventually be turned just into another commercialized tourist attraction?
"Whatever happens," the boatwoman said laconically, "our lives go on."
"It's such a boring town. I just don't understand why you're here. There is nothing to see except old buildings," said a snack shop owner, who was busy transferring long noodles into a basket for cooling.
Strolling along the cobblestone main street, a visitor can be forgiven for feeling a step back in time.
Unlike the crowded streets and noisy tourist shops that mark many famous ancient water towns in China, Shaxi is like a sleeping beauty, unscathed and ignored by the hustle-bustle of the outside world.
There are no souvenir shops nor annoying tourism touts here, claiming to offer guided free tours. Shaxi's greatest strength is the ebb and flow of daily life as it has existed for a long time. There are a few shops selling antique furniture, cooking local dumplings, fixing locks, grinding scissors and turning out clothes for the newborn and even the newly deceased.
Qian Zhongfa, 56, has been writing the obituaries for local residents for more than 30 years. "The town hasn't changed much since I was little," he said.
Along the street, a river flows. Three old stone bridges cross over, connecting the small town to the outside world.
All the old houses hang over the river. "It's the biggest difference from Zhouzhuang and Tongli towns," Zhou Li, 60, said, comparing Shaxi with more famous water towns. Zhou lives on the main street.
The old houses that feature elaborate carvings on doors and window edges were built during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Paint peels from wooden posts.
In 2009, the local government invested 200 million yuan (US$31.6 million) to renovate the old town. Tap water, electric power, gas and sewage systems were installed to every household. "It facilitated our daily life greatly and also stopped locals pouring dirty water into the river," Zhou said.
One of the highlights on the street is Gongshi Hall, once the residence of a local wealthy family. The hall features delicate carvings and ancient Chinese paintings and calligraphy. Its back garden features a rockery and a small pavilion built on a peaceful pond.
For those with time to spare, a boat ride on the river affords a picturesque view of the whole town. The woman rowing the boat said she has been offering her service to visitors for about three years. She looks to be about 50, and has an easy-going smile.
"Life is simple here," she said. "I guess it's more of a place for old people like me."
Will this quiet, scenic backwater eventually be turned just into another commercialized tourist attraction?
"Whatever happens," the boatwoman said laconically, "our lives go on."
- About Us
- |
- Terms of Use
- |
-
RSS - |
- Privacy Policy
- |
- Contact Us
- |
- Shanghai Call Center: 962288
- |
- Tip-off hotline: 52920043
- 沪ICP证：沪ICP备05050403号-1
- |
- 互联网新闻信息服务许可证：31120180004
- |
- 网络视听许可证：0909346
- |
- 广播电视节目制作许可证：沪字第354号
- |
- 增值电信业务经营许可证：沪B2-20120012
Copyright © 1999- Shanghai Daily. All rights reserved.Preferably viewed with Internet Explorer 8 or newer browsers.
