Getting to know Shanghai's unsung delta cousins
By Tan Weiyun |
May 28, 2012, Monday
|
Print Edition
Print Edition
AS a native of Shanghai, I always thought of the Yangtze River Delta as a region of light textile production, cheap labor and factories churning out goods under foreign brand names.
However, a 10-day trip to four smaller delta cities in Jiangsu Province - Taicang, Danyang, Jingjiang and Qidong - certainly changed my perceptions dramatically.
It is no exaggeration to say that most Shanghai people think of Jiangsu province in terms of its two most famous cities, Suzhou and Nanjing. Our tour skipped those well-known places and ventured into what might be called the heartland of the hinterland.
I stayed two days in Taicang. Although the small city is only a 40-minute drive to Shanghai, it seemed a world away. The streets were clean, the environment was green, and the pace of life was relaxing, even carefree. In the downtown area, traffic was manageable, with many people scuttling around on electric-powered bikes.
The city has a population of no more than one million. I joked to one of my colleagues that the figure was less than the number of people who visited the Shanghai Expo park on October 16, 2010, the day attendance exceeded 1.02 million.
Taicang is home to more than 170 German enterprises, which have given the city a certain European flavor. Beer, barbecues and live music are popular among street food stalls.
A local government official told me that few Taicang people have any desire to pull up stakes and leave. "Most who moved out have moved back," the official said. "They said life here is easier. Costs are less, and the quality of life is better."
Small wonder more Shanghainese are beginning to discover Taicang and buy homes here. One property built on the borderline of both cities carries dual area codes.
"Grand Hotel"
Danyang was my second stop. When our car drove into the city, its wide streets and busy traffic surprised me. Urban planning seemed to have adopted a human face. It was funny to see almost every dining place calling itself "Grand Hotel" - even a tiny snack bar.
Glasses making is one of the city's staple industries. A Danyang friend told me that each resident in Danyang owns more than four pairs of spectacles – one for the desk, one for the car, one for bedside reading and one in the bathroom.
Danyang has a history dating back almost 2,000 years. It bears testament to the past. A Danyang old-timer will hear your surname, mull it over for a while and then come up with interesting stories attached to the family name.
The city seems rife with fancy cars. At midnight, I could hear the roar of cars racing up and down the streets.
Jingjiang, the third city I visited, impressed me with its fine cuisine. Large steamed dumplings, balloon fish and the "Yangtze River fish banquet" are famous local specialties. On every street, I saw dried pork shops and fish restaurants.
Taking advantage of its location on the Yangtze River, the city is speeding up development of shipbuilding and port industries. It is emerging as one of China's largest logistics centers for grain, oil and logs.
But what struck me most was its services industry. Foot-massage parlors, sauna centers and bathhouses operate late into the night. Even after 2am, I could get food delivery by phone.
Qidong was my last stop. With the opening of the Chongming-Qidong Bridge last year, the city is only about an hour's drive from Shanghai.
I felt Qidong people were not only geographically but also psychologically close to Shanghai. I could understand 80 percent of the local dialect. Qidong people joked that they might not know the name of the governor of Jiangsu Province but they are quite familiar with the name of Shanghai's mayor.
Strolling on the streets there, I heard a lot of Shanghai dialect. In the seafood restaurants, at the fish market and by the sea, Shanghai people seemed to abound.
This four-city trip gave me new insights into the unsung support base that the delta cities contribute to the greater Shanghai region. A little bit like meeting a distant cousin for the first time and realizing what a lot you have in common.
However, a 10-day trip to four smaller delta cities in Jiangsu Province - Taicang, Danyang, Jingjiang and Qidong - certainly changed my perceptions dramatically.
It is no exaggeration to say that most Shanghai people think of Jiangsu province in terms of its two most famous cities, Suzhou and Nanjing. Our tour skipped those well-known places and ventured into what might be called the heartland of the hinterland.
I stayed two days in Taicang. Although the small city is only a 40-minute drive to Shanghai, it seemed a world away. The streets were clean, the environment was green, and the pace of life was relaxing, even carefree. In the downtown area, traffic was manageable, with many people scuttling around on electric-powered bikes.
The city has a population of no more than one million. I joked to one of my colleagues that the figure was less than the number of people who visited the Shanghai Expo park on October 16, 2010, the day attendance exceeded 1.02 million.
Taicang is home to more than 170 German enterprises, which have given the city a certain European flavor. Beer, barbecues and live music are popular among street food stalls.
A local government official told me that few Taicang people have any desire to pull up stakes and leave. "Most who moved out have moved back," the official said. "They said life here is easier. Costs are less, and the quality of life is better."
Small wonder more Shanghainese are beginning to discover Taicang and buy homes here. One property built on the borderline of both cities carries dual area codes.
"Grand Hotel"
Danyang was my second stop. When our car drove into the city, its wide streets and busy traffic surprised me. Urban planning seemed to have adopted a human face. It was funny to see almost every dining place calling itself "Grand Hotel" - even a tiny snack bar.
Glasses making is one of the city's staple industries. A Danyang friend told me that each resident in Danyang owns more than four pairs of spectacles – one for the desk, one for the car, one for bedside reading and one in the bathroom.
Danyang has a history dating back almost 2,000 years. It bears testament to the past. A Danyang old-timer will hear your surname, mull it over for a while and then come up with interesting stories attached to the family name.
The city seems rife with fancy cars. At midnight, I could hear the roar of cars racing up and down the streets.
Jingjiang, the third city I visited, impressed me with its fine cuisine. Large steamed dumplings, balloon fish and the "Yangtze River fish banquet" are famous local specialties. On every street, I saw dried pork shops and fish restaurants.
Taking advantage of its location on the Yangtze River, the city is speeding up development of shipbuilding and port industries. It is emerging as one of China's largest logistics centers for grain, oil and logs.
But what struck me most was its services industry. Foot-massage parlors, sauna centers and bathhouses operate late into the night. Even after 2am, I could get food delivery by phone.
Qidong was my last stop. With the opening of the Chongming-Qidong Bridge last year, the city is only about an hour's drive from Shanghai.
I felt Qidong people were not only geographically but also psychologically close to Shanghai. I could understand 80 percent of the local dialect. Qidong people joked that they might not know the name of the governor of Jiangsu Province but they are quite familiar with the name of Shanghai's mayor.
Strolling on the streets there, I heard a lot of Shanghai dialect. In the seafood restaurants, at the fish market and by the sea, Shanghai people seemed to abound.
This four-city trip gave me new insights into the unsung support base that the delta cities contribute to the greater Shanghai region. A little bit like meeting a distant cousin for the first time and realizing what a lot you have in common.
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