Many local people choose a German restaurant for the beer rather than the food, which is dismissed by many foodies as heavy and too simple.

“German food here is always about mashed potato, sausage and pork knuckle,” said Jason Liu, a local food writer.

“Ingredients used in German cuisine are all about meat, different kinds of meat, which is so boring. Plus the cost of a German meal is high,” added Lily Jiang, a local food writer, who nonetheless chooses German restaurants to entertain German friends.

Such comments are probably because most German restaurants in town are usually limited to Bavarian flavors, which are only part of German culinary culture.

Bavarian cuisine, developed by Bavarian dukes, tastes similar to Austrian and Czech cuisine, in which meat, flour and fermented cabbage play dominant roles.

Meat is often marinated in vinegar to soften the texture and then braised, roasted or pan-fried with spices. Most popular are bratwurst sausage and schweinshaxe, roasted pork knuckle.

Meat dishes are usually served with sauerkraut — fermented finely chopped cabbage, characterized by a distinctive sharp sour taste and long shelf life. The sour taste cuts through the fattiness of the meat.

The colder climate in many regions of Germany contribute to such hearty culinary traditions.

Ulrich Jablonka, formerly a German cuisine chef, now director of food and beverages at Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong, stresses that Bavarian flavors are not the whole story of German cooking.

“German cuisine is actually very flavorful and tasty, but is often mistaken or labeled as very heavy and fatty. As with other cuisines, German dishes range from light and fresh to heavy and substantial,” said Jablonka.

“We like light options with simple preparation in summertime, but richer and heavier food that require a longer preparation in winter — such as stews, braised meats with abundant cabbage and local vegetables.

“The essence is the use of fresh and seasonal ingredients,” Jablonka added.

And while often dismissed as “simple” German cuisine can in fact have some of the most sophisticated flavors in the world, say fans.

The emergence of Baden cuisine highlighting seasonal produce gives German cooking haute cuisine status, said Guo Ying, chief sommelier at Four Seaons Hotel, Shanghai Pudong.

Baden, a famous wine region in the upper Rhine valley lies in western Germany, next to Alsace in France and Switzerland. A warm climate and diverse local produce have seen it attract one of the highest densities of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world.

However, at least for now, Shanghai foodies will have to look beyond the city to sample this branch of German cuisine.

Compared with German food, German beer has a solid reputation among locals.

“German beer is my first beer option. Frankly, it’s only when I need a glass of beer that I will consider a German restaurant. Paulaner (a famous German restaurant chain in town) is the only German place I go to for the food,” said food writer Liu, expressing a view shared by many locals.

Mille Meng, chief brewer of The Brew, Kerry Hotel Shanghai — one of a few craft breweries in town — explains the popularity of German beer in Shanghai.

“German beer distinguishes itself through its clean and pure malty aroma, which is created through the reinheitsgebot (German beer purity law), regulating that only water, hops, malt and yeast can be used. In many other countries, corn, even sugar, are used to enhance sweetness and reduce cost,” explained Meng.

Lager and weizen are the most representative German beers, said Meng.

Lager is fermented at low temperatures for a long time and is distinguished by its bright golden color and a malty, biscuit-like flavor.

Weizen is unfiltered beer made from a large quantity of wheat, sometimes with a darker color and a distinctive banana-esque aroma, the brewer explains.

Although German restaurants are not popular in Shanghai, German pastry shops and bakers are favorites of local people. Nearly all local German pastry shops sell the archetypal black forest gateau — layers of chocolate cake, whipped cream and sour cherries. Meanwhile, German bread is known for its use of sour dough.

Here we highlight some of the most authentic German flavors in Shanghai: a restaurant featuring Bavarian food; a brewery known for its German craft beer; and a baker’s claiming to be the first traditional German bakery in Shanghai.

Paulaner Brauhaus

This is food writer Liu’s only option for German dining in Shanghai. The chain opened its first branch in town in 1997, and currently has four outlets. Each features wooden panel decor and waiting staff in traditional Bavarian costume, creating a cozy yet bustling ambience. Its branches in Xintiandi and on Fenyang Road are especially recommended for their historical touches.

Dishes are in classic hearty Bavarian style, prepared by chefs from Germany and Austria. Signature choices include the famous pork knuckle with sauerkraut and sausage platter with more than four varieties. Apple strudel with vanilla ice cream also deserves a try.

Beers offered at the Fenyang Road branch are brewed on site, with Munich dark beer a popular choice.

The Sunday brunch buffet seems especially good value.

• Xintiandi branch

Address: No. 19, Lane 181, Taicang Rd

Tel: 6320-3935

• Fenyang Road branch

Address: 150 Fenyang Rd

Tel: 6474-5700

The Brew

This craft brewery offers cozy, contemporary ambience complemented by live music. The area, including an outdoor patio, can accommodate 195 people and offers sports broadcasts and a pleasant view of Century Park.

Six handcrafted beers and one cider are available. These include Skinny Green — a gold medal winning low-sugar organic beer popular among German customers.

Skinny green, with high attenuation and dryness, has a beautiful light amber color, light body, low sugar content and pure malty aroma.

Pils, winning the gold medal of Pilsner Category, 2012 Beerfest Asia, features golden straw color and grassy hop aroma, with subtle sweetness and a long finish.

For first-time visitors, The Brew recommends its tasting platter, featuring six beers and one cider served in 120 milliliter glasses. It also offers casual pub-style food, including grilled chicken wings, beefburgers and sausage served with mashed potato.

Address: 1/F, 1388 Huamu Rd

Tel: 6169-8888

Abendbrot

This baker’s shop follows traditional German recipes. More than half of the breads use German wheat or rye to ensure the authenticity in flavor. Some of their breads are organic, while others are seasonal. Potato bread has recently been launched for autumn.

Various rolls and brezels are popular — including small brezels, pumpkin rolls, poppy seed rolls and sesame rolls.

The Haubi’s organic collection features eight kinds of bread. Sample the organic Kaiser roll — soft on the inside and crispy outside. The organic seeded spicy roll also deserves a try. It’s sprinkled with seeds and spices to give a rich, nutty flavor.

Cake lovers can try the Frankfurter Kranzer, a marble cake filled with cream.

While Abendbrot is located on the first floor of the German Center in Zhangjiang High-tech Park, far from downtown, it offers a home delivery service, even delivering to neighboring cities.

Address: 925-5 Gaoguang Rd

Tel: 6923-3277