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February 11, 2015

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Home » Supplement » Travel

From waddling duck to zooming downhill

By Liu Xiaolin | February 11, 2015, Wednesday | Print Edition

Before arranging this trip to Fenghua, all I knew about this sub-county of Ningbo City was that it was famed for its delicious taro and was the hometown of former Kuomintang leader Chiang Kai-shek.

So it was easy to imagine my surprise when I learned about an outdoor ski resort in Fenghua.

We set out on a highly-polluted day when the Air Quality Index reached over 300 in the Yangtze River Delta region. Standing at the exit of Ningbo railway station, I regretted having ventured outdoors, but this was quickly replaced by a feeling of exhilaration as our car wound its way up the mountain, leaving lower-lying pollutants behind.

“The air is better on clearer days, tasting a bit sweet,” insisted Xia Yinchun, assistant general manager of Shangliang Hill Ski Resort.

Located on Siming Mountain in eastern Zhejiang Province, the resort on Shangliang Hill covers an area of 18,000 square meters at an altitude of some 800 meters above sea level.

As the mercury drops 1 degree Celsius every 100 meters above sea level, it can reach minus 4-5 degrees in winter, making it possible to produce artificial snow, Xia said.

Four snowmaking machines frequently pump snow to cover the three 500m runs that are 70 centimeters thick, making Shangliang Hill a haven for novice skiers since opening in 2007.

The resort, which can cope with 500 skiers, is open from late December to early March.

The snow wasn’t particularly thick or solid on the day we arrived due to recent warm weather.

Still, there was enough snow for rookies like me to fasten on our skis and give it a go.

The first time I put on a pair of ski boots, I waddled like a duck. The boots were so rigid and heavy that there was no way that I could bend my ankles as I normally do when walking.

The challenge came when walking down steps. The trick was to edge away, one foot at a time. Still, I almost tripped over and my instructor basically had to carry me down the first few steps.

But awkwardness faded away once I reached the run. My instructor showed me some basic skills, such as how to fasten the skis, how to keep balanced while sliding down, and how to stop.

“The key is to fight your instincts and control your speed,” said the instructor, surnamed Gu.

The 20-something from northern China is one of the 36 instructors at the resort. They charge 200 yuan (US$32) for an hour’s one-to-one instruction. She says that she can give four lessons every day at peak season.

I didn’t realize how hard it was to “fight your instincts” until I started on my own.

Keep your weight forward even though you feel you’re off-balance; always chin up and look forward for directions, no matter how much you want to look down.

Just like riding a bicycle, you can manage it in the end ... after several falls. After a tumble it took quite an effort to get back onto my feet wearing skis.

And having grown up in relatively snow-free Shanghai walking in deep snow to get uphill was another slog.

But all these efforts were worth it the second I zoomed downhill, adrenalin pumping and my heart almost leaping into the throat.

“It was so cool to ski all the way down!” My friend Chen Cheng cried out when reached the bottom of the slope.

“Even though I had to climb a long way up carrying these stupid, heavy skis.”

With a 30m-run between 12 and 15 degrees, the slopes in Shangliang Hill are only for beginners, Xia said.

A bigger resort, about five times the size of the current one, is due to be built on the other side of the hill, according to the latest plans.

A set of gear — including boots, skis and poles — is available on site. Skiers are advised to bring their own goggles, helmets, gloves and ski jackets.

The charge is 220 yuan an hour at weekends and 180 yuan on weekdays. A current deal offers two hours on weekdays for 180 yuan.

Siming Mountain is one and a half hours drive from downtown Ningbo, ideal for day-trippers. Those who travel at a more leisurely pace can stay at a hotel with 155 rooms. Nearby sights include the Xuedou Temple, which houses a 56-meter statue of sitting Maitreya Bodhisattva.

Opening hours: 9am-5pm, December to March

How to get there: Take a coach from Ningbo railway station and get off at Xikou, then take a tour bus to Shangliang Hill. Or drive along Yong-Jin Highway and get off at Xikou, drive to Xuedou Temple and follow the signs to Shangliang Hill.

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