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London fashionable again as designers parade their work
Source: Agencies |
February 22, 2010, Monday
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LONDON'S taste for the avant garde makes it vital for the fashion industry's young talent and veterans alike, according to designers, brushing aside fears the city is being squeezed out by rivals Milan, New York and Paris.
"It is eclectic. The diversity you have in London you just don't have anywhere else," Kinder Aggugini, an Italian-born, Savile Row-trained designer, said on Saturday after his catwalk show of flowing dresses and laser-cut cashmere coats.
London Fashion Week's place in the packed calendar of fashion's top editors, buyers and trend-setters has been hotly debated since the city was forced to cut back its events early last year after a calendar clash with larger rivals. But six days that will include some of the industry's big names, including returning Burberry, alongside rookie designers, have attracted an increased number of buyers.
John Rocha, who celebrated his 25th year in fashion with a show of contradicting textures and dramatic georgette ruffles, defended the city.
Rocha showed briefly in Paris, before returning to London.
"There is a great energy in London from young people, established people - and it isn't just fashion, it is music, movies, restaurants. To be part of this movement is great," the designer said.
London's embracing of the high street has ruffled feathers among some fashion veterans, not least with shows by - and sponsored by - high street retailer Topshop. The store showed its own forest-inspired "Unique" collection on Saturday.
But designers, particularly the new generation, are keen to embrace the link with the high street, both through retailers and through bloggers, who take many new names to an instant, wider audience and connect them with consumers.
Mary Katrantzou, whose catwalk show was sponsored by Topshop, says she was attracted by London's combination of store buyer interest and young names.
"A lot more international buyers are coming to London. There is this raw talent coming out, and they are aware of it," she said after her show of structured dresses in dramatic baroque and military trompe l'oeil prints.
"London keeps you creative enough to not get too commercial. But because you know there is interest from the buyers, it pushes you to see this as a business as well."
Katrantzou, like many other young designers emerging as customers are still keeping their purse strings tight, is well aware of the need to balance creativity with the ability to catch the eye of the consumer. Her collections have been snapped up by trend-setting stores, such as Paris's Colette.
But she, like many industry analysts and buyers, urged young designers to keep the balance and preserve the originality that will grab attention - and space in coveted department stores.
"It is eclectic. The diversity you have in London you just don't have anywhere else," Kinder Aggugini, an Italian-born, Savile Row-trained designer, said on Saturday after his catwalk show of flowing dresses and laser-cut cashmere coats.
London Fashion Week's place in the packed calendar of fashion's top editors, buyers and trend-setters has been hotly debated since the city was forced to cut back its events early last year after a calendar clash with larger rivals. But six days that will include some of the industry's big names, including returning Burberry, alongside rookie designers, have attracted an increased number of buyers.
John Rocha, who celebrated his 25th year in fashion with a show of contradicting textures and dramatic georgette ruffles, defended the city.
Rocha showed briefly in Paris, before returning to London.
"There is a great energy in London from young people, established people - and it isn't just fashion, it is music, movies, restaurants. To be part of this movement is great," the designer said.
London's embracing of the high street has ruffled feathers among some fashion veterans, not least with shows by - and sponsored by - high street retailer Topshop. The store showed its own forest-inspired "Unique" collection on Saturday.
But designers, particularly the new generation, are keen to embrace the link with the high street, both through retailers and through bloggers, who take many new names to an instant, wider audience and connect them with consumers.
Mary Katrantzou, whose catwalk show was sponsored by Topshop, says she was attracted by London's combination of store buyer interest and young names.
"A lot more international buyers are coming to London. There is this raw talent coming out, and they are aware of it," she said after her show of structured dresses in dramatic baroque and military trompe l'oeil prints.
"London keeps you creative enough to not get too commercial. But because you know there is interest from the buyers, it pushes you to see this as a business as well."
Katrantzou, like many other young designers emerging as customers are still keeping their purse strings tight, is well aware of the need to balance creativity with the ability to catch the eye of the consumer. Her collections have been snapped up by trend-setting stores, such as Paris's Colette.
But she, like many industry analysts and buyers, urged young designers to keep the balance and preserve the originality that will grab attention - and space in coveted department stores.
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