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October 4, 2012

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New York Asian eateries rise in Michelin ranking

MICHELIN awarded its coveted stars to a handful of New York restaurants that feature Chinese, Korean or Japanese inspired dishes in the 2013 edition of its Big Apple guide that appeared yesterday.

Masa, the city's only Asian restaurant with three stars and considered the gold standard of Asian cooking in New York, retained its top ranking.

Michelin again awarded Soto and David Chang's Momofuku Ko restaurant two stars and gave one star to Cafe China, Hakkasan, Lan Sheng, 15 East and Jungkin this year, along with 11 other Asian restaurants that kept one star. Laut, which serves Southeast Asian cuisine and had one star, fell from the list.

"We have a lot of Asian restaurants which upped their ante. They are becoming more adventurous and creative. They are able to deliver new versions on old dishes that have really caught our attention," said Michael Ellis, international director of the Michelin Guides.

Asian restaurants in New York - with a population that is 13 percent Asian - have been given relatively few stars by Michelin. Critics say the rankings tend to favor high-end restaurants that serve European-inspired food.

Ellis said the success of chef Chang helped raise the standards and popularity of Asian restaurants.

"He is a Korean American who decided to do new takes on Korean food and hit the ball out of the park," said Ellis, a native New Yorker who now lives in France. "He's been a role model for a lot of chefs."

Michelin dropped Kajitsu, which serves Japanese vegetarian dishes, to one-star from two-star after a change of chefs, he added.





 

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