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August 21, 2010

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Skinny jeans get their marching orders

WOMEN who hate skinny jeans can rejoice next year when the extra-tight denim that has dominated the market for more than two years makes way for wide-leg cuts.

Bell-bottoms and boot-cut styles will appear in United States stores in the spring and many apparel watchers predict the eventual demise of the skinny that has spurred both adoration and revulsion.

"The pendulum is swinging away from skinny," said Ryan Dziadul, a spokesman for VF Corp's 7 For All Mankind.

"There are millions of pairs out there. For spring, it's about bell-bottoms." Wider-leg jeans made an appearance this week at the Magic apparel trade show, the twice-annual Las Vegas pilgrimage where retail buyers place orders for the newest looks.

Jeans makers are looking for something new to entice shoppers who have proven scarce at the check-out line since the recession.

The move comes as jeans as a category will lessen in importance this spring, experts said. Khakis and corduroy pants are expected to steal the focus.

True Religion Brand Jeans is increasing the amount of non-denim apparel in its line to between 30 percent and 40 percent, from about 5 percent last year.

"Denim has slowed down dramatically. She doesn't want to buy more jeans," said Oscar Feldenkreis, president and chief operating officer of Perry Ellis, speaking of the female shopper. "And the jeggings trend has slowed down."

Jeggings, or leggings designed to emulate the tightest jeans, have been popular this past year across a variety of retailers, from high-end Bloomingdale's to discounter Wal-Mart Stores.

Despite the trends shifting to a wider look, some retailers are nervous so manufacturers will continue to make skinny and other styles to offer a range of options.

"Retailers are seeing it in the trend reports, they're very curious, but they're not really booking it heavily yet," said Hala Jbara, director of marketing for Pepe Jeans. "They're more willing to try boot cuts."

That fear of the unknown is also evident in a wealth of recycled styles on display on the trade show floor where distressed leggings and tops, military-inspired pants and jackets or the ubiquitous graphic T-shirt jockey for attention.

"We're seeing silhouettes we saw last year," said Holly Valdez, co-owner of a Costa Mesa, California boutique. "They're playing it safe, but changing it up a bit."

A graphic T-shirt may have an uneven hem or an Army-inspired top might now have ruffles, adding a feminine twist to what was a harder-edged look.

 

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