Unraveling the art and essence of yaoban cloth
Print Edition
Winter has arrived, and chilly winds are howling outside. Yet, in Jiading, there are cozy corners filled with warmth, where delicious food, stunning scenery, and interesting experiences dissolve the fatigue of a long day.
“Savoring flavors” isn’t just about discovering the taste of food — it’s about savoring the essence of life and the charm of art.
On Anting Old Street, there is a Yaoban Cloth craft experience center, offering a serene spot to relax and recharge after work. The yao (medicinal) aspect of yaoban cloth refers to its key auxiliary ingredient — the leaves of Isatis root, a traditional Chinese medicinal herb. The ban (patterns) refer to the designs created during the dyeing process, giving the fabric its name.
Here, you can witness the fascinating transformation of plain white fabric into exquisite handcrafted pieces, while immersing yourself in the unique charm of intangible cultural heritage.
On entering the center, the spacious and bright workshop immediately catches your eye, with an array of specialized tools and materials for creating blue calico on full display.
Hu Sufen is a recognized inheritor of Anting’s blue calico heritage. Hu holds dual master’s degrees from Tongji University and the University of Mannheim in Germany. In 2019, she made a decision to dedicate herself to preserving and promoting the art of blue calico dyeing, studying under Wang Yuanchang, a municipal-level representative inheritor of this traditional craft in Shanghai.
Hu shares the history and cultural significance of blue calico and shows its production process, including mixing dye paste, carving stencils, applying paste, and dyeing. Additionally, the center features an exhibition area showcasing exquisite creations. From fashionable garments to rustic home goods, each piece demonstrates remarkable craftsmanship.
Blue calico is said to originate from Anting Town in Jiading District. It was invented by the Gui family during the Jiatai period of the Song Dynasty in the early 13th century. Fabric is treated with a medicinal paste, dyed, dried, and then the paste is removed, resulting in blue-and-white patterns. These fabrics, adorned with figures, flowers and birds, were used for bedspreads and curtains.
The Gui family inadvertently discovered the process when juice from Indigofera plants stained white fabric, creating the earliest patterns of blue calico.
Over time, however, a new formula of resist paste using soybean flour and lime has been deployed. Along with other improvements in technique, cloth production has been increased and the craft becomes more accessible to common farmers.
In 2009, yaoban cloth was included in the second batch of Shanghai’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
Address: 2/F, 606 Anting Street
Opening Hours: 10am-11am, 1pm-4pm, Tuesday to Sunday
Reservation number: +86 13916925949
(Note: A minimum of five people is required to book the yaoban cloth craft experience.)
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