French ignore isolation to buy daily baguette
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In France, the fight against COVID-19 is being waged one baguette at a time. No longer just a mere staple, the iconic loaf and the French daily ritual of buying it has become loaded with moral, civic and public health considerations that could never have been imagined before the novel coronavirus turned life upside down.
In a nation in lockdown, popping out for a fresh baguette is proving a handy excuse for people to get out of the house.
There is one notable exception: a town on the Mediterranean coast where the mayor has banned people from doing just that, to keep them indoors.
But eschewing the crusty comfort of a fresh-baked baguette has become significant, too 鈥 a small sacrifice in this new era where sacrifices are being asked of many. For some, not buying bread daily and instead staying indoors to try to stay healthy has become an act in itself, a gesture of solidarity with the doctors and nurses fighting to save lives in stressed emergency wards.
Trying to steer a path between their love of bread and beating the virus, some in France are now buying baguettes by the armful and freezing them. That would have been a gastronomic no-no in normal times.
But defrosting and reheating is now a pragmatic, civic-minded and health-conscious compromise, certainly better than no baguette at all.
The French have baked long loaves for centuries and coined 鈥渂aguette鈥 鈥 or stick 鈥 around 120 years ago in Paris. Millions of French consume billions of baguettes each year, and not just as fuel.
Diners use hunks of bread as tools for pushing food around their plates and onto their forks. The crust makes the bread easy to grip 鈥 its airy internal sponge soaks up sauces and the bloody juices of cooked meats. A baguette鈥檚 saltiness accentuates flavors, while its doughy neutrality tames the tang of the most pungent cheeses.
鈥淚t鈥檚 indispensable. You need bread to push your food stuffs, to give them taste, for nourishment. It is good for everything,鈥 masked shopper Yves Lagrellette said last week as he made what has now become his weekly baguette run in Le Vesinet, west of Paris. He bought five in one go, for freezing. He used to buy one daily.
When the government locked down France last month, shutting down schools and stores deemed non-essential and forcing families indoors, it also gave bakers special dispensation to work every day of the week if they wish.
Baker Margot Hazard says she and her husband Cyril feel that with their breads and cakes, they are providing a slice of normalcy to customers who line up, standing apart, outside their door, respecting each other鈥檚 space and handwritten signs on the window that read: 鈥淭hree people maximum in the bakery.鈥
鈥淭he work really is tough at the moment,鈥 Hazard said. 鈥淪ome clients are very worried about us touching their bread and touching their change. They are all a bit on edge. And we are on edge, too. But it is super important for everyone鈥檚 morale. It鈥檚 important that people eat what they want to eat to keep their spirits up. A life without bread, cheese and wine is not French.鈥
Customers Marie and Jean-Claude Lemeux, now work-from-home bankers, agreed. No sooner had he bought their baguette than he ripped one end off and nibbled it, right there in the street. That crusty nub of pleasure even has its own name 鈥 鈥渓e quignon.鈥 鈥淚t鈥檚 better fresh. It鈥檚 hot, crusty,鈥 he said. And baguette-buying 鈥渁llows us to get out.鈥
鈥淭he sharing of bread is an anchor at the dinner table, at family meals,鈥 she said. 鈥淲e feel a need to focus on family, on food, for life to go on. It鈥檚 symbolic.鈥
But in the Mediterranean town of Sanary-sur-Mer, buying only one baguette risks a police fine of 135 euros (US$146). Mayor Ferdinand Bernhard says people shouldn鈥檛 be using the buying of bread as an excuse to go out every day.
鈥淎nyone caught coming out of a bakery with just one loaf will be fined,鈥 he said. 鈥淚f you go once a week, you cut the risk by a factor of seven 鈥 for you, the baker, his entourage and yours.鈥
鈥淭his is no time for people鈥檚 moods. The priority is to not get sick. You can freeze bread. You can even live without it. It鈥檚 not a sacrifice. It鈥檚 an adaptation,鈥 he added.
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