Raising the bar in downtown for Korean cuisine
Print Edition
TOM Ryu is on a mission to redefine Korean cuisine in Shanghai. With his restaurant group P.I.E — which includes NABI and WULI on Wuyi Road — Tom brings authenticity, creativity and rich diversity of Korean gastronomy to the city’s dining scene.
Frustrated by the prevalence of fusion-style Korean food in China, Tom is determined to highlight the depth of traditional Korean flavors — ranging from humble street-food roots to refined chef’s table experiences. At NABI, he combines meticulous sourcing of premium ingredients with thoughtful presentation, immersive design, and a regionally-inspired seasonal menu, transforming each meal into an unforgettable cultural journey that blends artistry and memory.
The founder and chef-owner of P.I.E team comes from a family deeply rooted in the culinary world. After completing his military service in South Korea, he launched his first restaurant at the age of 24 in his hometown, Cheongju.
A food consulting opportunity brought him to Hangzhou, in neighboring Zhejiang Province, in 2016, and a weeklong visit to Shanghai soon after convinced him to take a leap. He settled in the city in 2017, later becoming the owner-chef of JEJU SAGYE before founding his own group.
“In China, I noticed that most places serve fusion-style Korean food, which takes away from tradition and authenticity. Many people only recognize Korean BBQ, tteokbokki and bibimbap, but there’s so much more — countless traditional dishes that deserve attention,” he pointed out. “Our goal is to share real Korean culture through food and beverage in Shanghai and beyond.”
Choosing Wuyi Road as the location for his restaurants was intentional.
“I don’t care much about foot traffic — the vibe and energy of this street is what inspired me. I wanted to create a different kind of experience — not the typical Bund view or luxury mall setting, but something that feels more like a journey, almost like traveling.”
NABI, a transliteration of the Korean word for “butterfly,” invites one to indulge in refined Korean cuisine and an immersive chef’s table experience. From the moment guests step inside, they are immersed in a multi-sensory experience: from digital art by a Chinese artist, installations inspired by butterflies, to the thoughtfully crafted chef’s table, a curated seasonal Korean playlist and the warm interaction with the team.
“The trend is shifting — people now seek genuine experiences. Sometimes that experience becomes a memory and a single memory has the power to change an entire life. Here, a meal may last two to three hours, but the memory can stay with someone forever,” Tom said.
Every night, a dedicated team of 25 staff ensures that each guest leaves with just such an impression.
Unlike many chefs who trained in culinary schools, Tom began with street food, honing his craft step by step. Drawing inspiration from everyday life, he combines passions with innovation, challenging stereotypes of Korean cuisine. His menus, which change every three months, highlight Korea’s rich regional diversity, where climate, geography and culture all shape unique flavors.
“Our dishes showcase the distinctive ingredients, techniques, and flavor profiles from different regions of Korea,” he explained.
He guarantees the finest Korean ingredients by sourcing them through his own import company, ensuring the highest quality on every plate. Aside from an impressive wine list of over 600 labels, he also curates Korea’s finest spirits — soju, makgeolli, and rice wine.
The current summer menu celebrates the season’s duality. Following the philosophy of iyeolchiyeol (“fighting heat with heat”), hearty broths and revitalizing dishes harness the strength of mountain and sea, while ihan-chi-han (“fighting heat with cold”) offers cooling relief through refreshing dishes like dongchimi (radish water kimchi with ice slivers), mul-naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles in broth), and chilled cucumber soup.
Seasonal produce like whitefish, young radish, Korean melon, watermelon, and peaches infuse the menu with freshness and balance, while jars of jang — fermented pastes such as doenjang, ganjang and gochujang — mature under the summer sun, adding depth and umami.
Each night, NABI hosts two seatings, with 16 counter-style seats surrounding an open kitchen. The seasonal set menu is priced at 1,288 yuan (US$179.5) with an optional 588 yuan for Korean alcohol pairing (six glasses) plus a 10 percent service charge.
Reservations are available through the official WeChat mini program (NABI Shanghai). Reservations open on the 1st of every month at 3pm.
Opening hours: 6pm-11pm (Tuesday to Saturday)
Tel: 186-1623-2709
Address: Room 201, Bldg 1, WYSH 168 Wuyi Rd
Average price: 1,500 yuan (US$211)
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