Melon variationsa duo of divergent tastes
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EDIBLE gourds are among summer’s favorable vegetables in China because they are juicy, fresh and highly versatile in various cuisines.
Two of the popular and very inexpensive gourds in the market now are winter melon and bitter melon, both very rich in vitamin C. Don’t be fooled by the name. These aren’t melons in the watermelon sense of the word.
The gourds can be used in stir-fries, soups, stews and even beverages and desserts. Chinese tradition says the two vegetables are ideal for relieving internal body heat in the summer.
Also known as ash or wax gourd, winter melon is widely cultivated throughout Asia. Contrary to its name, it actually requires very warm weather to grow.
The mature fruit usually weighs from 10 to 20 kilos or more. The waxy, hard outer coating protects the white flesh inside and extends the storage life of this vegetable to many months after harvest.
The more common big winter melon is often sold by the slice since the whole vegetable is too large to be consumed at one time by one household.
Smaller varieties weighing between 2 and 5 kilos are available in places like Beijing, Chengdu and Nanjing.
Winter melon is one of the most versatile ingredients in Chinese cuisine because almost every part of the vegetable is edible. The flesh has little flavor and aroma of its own, so it works very well in combination with other ingredients.
Winter melon soup is a basic dish using this seasonal vegetable. The fresh winter melon is first skinned and sliced into thinner pieces, then sautéed lightly with a bit of oil until the flesh softens. Water, salt and dried small shrimp are then added and brought to the boil. When served, the flesh looks transparent in a bowl. Chopped green onion can be added for extra flavor.
Another version of this soup uses pork or beef bone stock instead of water. This vegetable can also be stewed with short ribs, meatballs, shrimp or aged ham to make soups.
Braised winter melon is a quick and easy recipe for a rich flavored dish perfect to accompany steamed rice. To make it, cubes of the winter melon are sautéed until slightly caramelized. Then water or soup stock, dark soy sauce, sugar and salt are added and left to simmer until the sauce thickens and the winter melon softens.
For a lighter dish, stir-fry thinly sliced winter melon on high heat with garlic and green onion. You may add optional protein with shrimp or lean pork.
Steamed winter melon is a dish that doesn’t require standing over a hot wok. First, marinate the minced pork with salt, garlic and soy sauce for five minutes, then place the winter melon slices on a plate and top with the pork. Steam over high heat until the winter melon is fully cooked, and served with chopped green onion and sesame oil. The minced pork can be replaced with small shrimp or ham.
Winter melon juice is a low-sugar beverage ideal for quenching the thirst on a hot summer day. It may sound unappetizing, but the juice has no weird flavor and abounds in a fresh taste. There is no need to remove the skin. Just wash thoroughly before putting winter melon cubes in a juicer with some water. To enhance the flavor, try adding some honey and lemon juice.
Winter melon tea is a warm beverage that originated in Taiwan. It uses winter melon and brown sugar to make a thick syrup that is then brewed with hot water.
Candied winter melon is a traditional sweet treat in southern China, but its high sugar content rules it out as a healthy snack. Candied winter melon takes a long time and complicated steps to make in the home kitchen, so most people just purchase the packaged variety in shops.
Winter melon has other uses as well. For example, the famous pineapple pastry pie of Taiwan has a filling of winter melon combined with pineapple. The melon contributes a chewy taste to the pie.
The famous Cantonese pastry laopo bing, or sweetheart cake, also uses a filling made with sweetened winter melon mash, sesame seeds or almond paste.
Bitter melon is a vegetable that people seem to either love or hate. The bright green melon pods with a warty surface can be very bitter indeed, depending on the cultivar. But many people love that bitterness and crunchy texture. Bitter melon is loaded with Vitamin C and minerals. It is also very popular in India, where it’s often served with yogurt or in curries.
In China, bitter melon is most commonly cooked in quick stir-fries on its own, or with scrambled eggs or lean pork meat.
To reduce the bitterness, cut the bitter melon in half and remove all the white flesh. Slice thinly and add salt and let stand about 15 minutes to soak out some of the bitterness. Dry the vegetable from the surface water the salt produces and then stir-fry. Another quick way is to cook the bitter melon in boiled water briefly.
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