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September 18, 2025

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Lessons from luxury brands’ experiments with F&B

IN Shanghai, “first in” isn’t a mere footnote — it’s a declaration of ambition. Welcome to the debut economy, a city‑sized theater of openings where first stores, premieres and flagships aren’t just commercial moves, but ritualized events.

Shanghai doesn’t wait for the future — it announces it, with each “first‑ever” shop acting as both landmarks and lightbulb moments in the city’s fast‑forward script.

So if you’re not launching first, why even bother?

For luxury brands, creativity is the issue. So while everyday consumers debate the merits of 9 yuan (US$1.26) milk tea, Louis Vuitton decided the next frontier of aspirational living was… chocolate.

Yes. Chocolate.

Enter Le Chocolat Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton, a name that rolls off the tongue like an Hermès scarf down a marble staircase. Unleashed upon Taikoo Li Qiantan on July 22, 2024, it was LV’s third chocolate boutique on Earth, and the first in China. It was — briefly — the hottest thing south of the Huangpu.

For about a month and a half, the hype was thick. Influencers descended like seagulls at a Bund brunch buffet. Locals queued like it was the iPhone 17. And just like that… puff — it vanished on August 10, 2025. A luxe fever dream, gone before anyone figured out how to pronounce “Frédéric.”

But oh, what a fever dream it was.

The chocolates were exquisite little tributes to the LV empire: one shaped like the LV mascot (a.k.a. that creepy-cute flower thing), others decked out in the Monogram, the Damier checkerboard, even the silhouette of their iconic trunks — because nothing says “edible luxury” like luggage-themed bonbons.

At 100 yuan a pop (or thereabouts), it was proudly dubbed “LV’s cheapest product,” which is kind of like calling a Bugatti-branded pencil case a bargain. But the idea was brilliant: finally, a way to taste the lifestyle, without mortgaging your kidney for a Neverfull.

And just like that, it was gone. No press release. No fanfare. Not even a slow fade. The boutique closed with all the subtlety of a WeChat group exodus.

So, what really happened?

Officially? The lease expired. Just like that. Clean, quiet, bloodless. One day you’re queueing for cacao shaped like a suitcase, the next day the lights are out and the security guard’s eating sunflower seeds where the greeter used to stand.

But in Shanghai, things don’t just close. They fade like a Douyin trend, replaced by the next prettier, shinier thing. And behind the velvet curtain of “normal lease cycles,” there’s usually a more textured story.

Whispers from those familiar with the brand and mall ops say yes, the lease did its time. But buzz on Dianping — Shanghai’s unofficial Yelp-slash-tribunal — suggests deeper fractures.

Patrons raved about the service: attentive, white-gloved, with enough ceremony to bless a Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) teacup. The packaging? Immaculate. Instagram loved it. But beneath all that luxe came the murmurs: the flavors just weren’t that great.

At 564 yuan a head (US$79, give or take), LV’s “cheapest product” wasn’t exactly casual snacking. You didn’t just buy the chocolate — you made a pilgrimage. One reviewer laid it bare: “If I didn’t need to buy a gift, I wouldn’t go all the way to Qiantan for chocolates.”

There it is. The hard truth of retail in Shanghai’s outer rings. You can wrap it in gold foil, engrave it with a Monogram, and charge rent for it — but if the flavor doesn’t hit and the metro ride’s too long, the check-ins dry up faster than a free sample tray at 5pm. This is a lesson learned for global brands that local consumers have increasingly discerning palettes.

And so, Louis Vuitton’s cocoa experiment ends not with scandal or fire, but with a polite bow and an off-stage exit. Shanghai barely blinked. So while the idea of “First in Shanghai” is indeed exciting for the city itself, it doesn’t always guarantee success. Factors such as price sensitivity, market fit, quality perception vs actual product are all real challenges.

LV may have poured heart, heritage, and haute Parisian patisserie into every piece, but your average buyer wasn’t tasting legacy — they were tasting obligation. The craftsmanship, the Maxime Frédéric name-drop, the supposed narrative of edible luxury… none of it really stuck. People weren’t talking about the notes of yuzu or layers of praline. They were talking about the ribbon. The receipt. The photo.

And then there’s the format.

Unlike its global siblings in Paris, Singapore, or New York — all snugly attached to flagships, cafés, or couture temples — Shanghai’s chocolate boutique was a single-purpose spaceship marooned in Qiantan.

In a city where attention spans are shorter than the life cycle of a bubble tea brand, that’s a tough sell. Luxury in Shanghai is a performance — and this boutique, however well-dressed, forgot the choreography.

And so: lights out. No drama. Just another brief, beautiful, overpriced blip in the city’s ever-churning carousel of firsts.

Spending power

There is this tightrope luxury brands walk when entering this market: immense visibility, enormous pressure. First, stores that open in Shanghai are not just retail spaces. If they launch in the city, they are meant to be statements of the brand to the entire Chinese market, starting with a city whose denizens are international and who have higher-than-average spending power.

These first in Shanghai launches are therefore monuments to the brand’s identity and performance stages for its worldview. But the audience is young, fast, picky and blessed with options. Prestige gets you in the door. Relevance keeps the lights on.

And here’s the thing: the most successful “crossovers” in Shanghai find ways to convert symbolic capital into real, usable, social capital. They break through the dimensional wall — from brand as a concept to brand as an experience. It’s not enough to be beautiful. You have to be useful.

Take Café Dior by the Bund’s prettier cousin out in Qiantan: Café Dior by Anne-Sophie Pic. Here, you’re not just sitting in a branded environment — you’re devouring it. The menu? A French-Jing’an fusion dream cooked up by a Michelin-anointed chef. The china? Monogrammed. The crowd? Dress-coded. It’s more than an ad you can eat. It’s a space where Dior becomes social currency — an afternoon tea that lets you cosplay as Parisian nobility while still posting from Pudong.

It’s that blend — aesthetic + activity — that moves the brand from shelf to story. Without it, all the logos in the world can’t keep a boutique from feeling like a very fancy vending machine.

Louis Vuitton’s chocolate was cute, yes. But in the end, people wanted more than just a box of lackluster chocolates to gift to someone else. They wanted a place to stay.

Even for Louis Vuitton itself, the “The Louis” at HKRI Taikoo Hui has proven far more successful than anticipated. By combining exhibitions, dining, and gift shops, the mixed-use concept enhances the consumer experience, turning it into a new fashion landmark that also drives traffic for the entire mall.

The crossover craze isn’t slowing down — it’s metastasizing. What began as cautious experimentation during the pandemic has ballooned into a full-blown lifestyle annexation.

Luxury houses, once content to sell you dreams via handbags and haute couture, now want a piece of your caffeine cycle.

Maison Kitsuné, Maison Margiela, Ralph Lauren, Tiffany & Co — all marching into F&B like it’s Fashion Week: Food Edition.

Shanghai, naturally, gets first dibs. The Maison Margiela Café opened its whitewashed doors on Nanjing Rd W, nestled inside the brand’s largest flagship store. That’s not an exaggeration. It’s a mothership. A full-scale bunker of quiet minimalism and quiet money.

To announce its arrival, they dropped a gigantic sculptural coffee cup on the sidewalk. Inside? More cups. More logos. And an arcade space so fully colonized by the café that one wonders if Margiela even sells clothes anymore, or just US$68 cold brews.

But the strategy is clear: don’t just visit the brand — live in it. Sit in it. Sip it. Post it. Turn it into content.

F&B becomes the warm, digestible entry point — luxury’s edible handshake. Less intimidating than a sales associate shadowing you while you finger nearly US$5,000 knitwear. More scalable than couture. And, critically, more photogenic.

But again: the coffee better be good.

The first floor houses ready-to-wear, while an outdoor ice cream cart runs separately with plenty of flair. The café on the second floor is airy and comfortable, with clean, bright tones and window seating that gives a view of blue skies and clouds — a relaxed vibe.

But now, the shop has grown nearly empty. Few come to buy coffee or take pictures, and its future remains uncertain.

Looking ahead, Shanghai’s luxury crossover landscape is entering its second act. The city’s no longer impressed by logos alone — it wants depth of experience, richness in flavors, and a direct response to China as a unique market in and of itself. If the first wave of branded cafés and concept boutiques was about presence, the next will be about relevance. The brands that understand that flagships in Shanghai are not retail, but brand statements... and if they get those statements just right, those will be the ones who succeed.

Success now hinges on more than just opening-week buzz and novelty lattes. It requires spaces that reward return visits. The brands that thrive here will be the ones that can translate symbolic value into something tactile, local, and lasting. That means less logo wallpaper, more substance. Less showroom, more social ritual. A space that gives back — not just grabs attention.




 

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