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December 1, 2019

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Home » Sunday » City Scene

An eatery sensitive to global trends, tastes

By Patsy Yang | 00:05 UTC+8 December 1, 2019 | Print Edition

The owner behind Bar No.3, Blackbird and Oha eatery is an architect to the sensitivity of global trends and tastes. And this is blatantly obvious with her latest venture — Pass Residence.

The new restaurant/bar/cafe showcases a contemporary interpretation of dining culture, with a focus on wood-fired pizza, hand-made pasta and a wide selection of natural wine.

However, what impresses most about the different venues created by the owner, Swing Diao, is that each has a different aesthetic ambience and inspiration. Yet there are always telltale signs you’re sitting in one: The atmosphere is relaxed, the decor well thought out, and the food trendy and unfussy.

Pass Residence on Julu Road features three entry doors, welcoming you into a well-flowed space that integrates a dining space, cafe area and a natural wine retail shop. But when you are inside, the whole space is an open-plan design, with a direct view of the custom-designed wood fire oven and kitchen.

Natural materials dominate the space with exposed wires on the wall, the vintage Ukrainian military lights adds a cool touch and the ambience is trendy yet rustic.

The establishment encourages smaller plates and a sharing concept.

The menu is Italian yet created by New Zealand native chef Blake Thornley. From the antipasti to the wood-fired pizza and hand-made pasta, I was not 100 percent convinced about the outcome.

The hand-made pasta was overcooked on my visit. However, the many small plates of antipasti, such as marinated vegetables, marinated white anchovies and green served on flat bread is ideal for wine pairing.

Natural wine is the biggest calling here. Not a big fan of everything natural but I couldn’t deny the irresistible trend of natural wine, with minimal intervention, from the farm to the cellar.

The team made a great effort searching for eclectic natural, organic and biodynamic wines around the world, mostly with good stories behind.

From skin contact (orange wine), red, to white and rose, there are about 10 natural wine types offered by the glass. Thus for those still confused by the definition of “natural” wines, visit and have a try yourself.

For those who are familiar with natural wines, it’s recommended to choose a bottle from its big selection of 200 labels. Pricing is indicated on each bottle, starting from 180 yuan to 1,180 yuan. Each visit would be a unique experience with new wines to discover.

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